Installing a toilet in a private house: instructions for beginners on how to properly install plumbing with your own hands | Photos & Videos

Related materials

In addition to a set of tools, before changing the toilet with your own hands, you need to purchase building materials for installation, including:

• pipe for connecting to the water supply system;
• sealant;
• corrugated pipe for connection to the sewer riser;
• tap;
• FUM tape;
• fasteners.

When exchanging a toilet - an old product for a new one - the main point is to ensure a reliable seal. Any loose connection or gap may result in a leak. When connecting a plumbing fixture to a sewer system, the best solution is to use silicone sealant in a cylinder.

Before replacing a toilet in an apartment or house, you should purchase plastic corrugated pipe products to connect it to the pipeline that discharges wastewater. This product is convenient because it is flexible and suitable in most cases. When bending, the corrugation can take different positions, compressing and stretching. It is suitable for both horizontal outlet and angled outlet.

To seal the joints, use sealing tape or do it the old fashioned way, using tow. The set of fastening elements includes screws, bolts, dowels, nuts, washers, plugs for connecting all components and carrying out installation work. If any fasteners are missing, they can be purchased additionally.

Preparatory work for installation

Regardless of what will cover the floor (tiles or regular screed), you need to wait time for the mixture to dry on the floor surface. This will take about a week. This is due to the fact that the toilet is fixed using fasteners and dowels, which require a reliable and solid base. In this situation, the hardened solution will act as a similar base.

Next, you should prepare those participating in the communication installation process. The area where the drain will be connected must be cleared of various contaminants and salt deposits in advance. Otherwise, it will not be possible to connect the toilet to the sewer riser as needed. That is, the corner or corrugation in the outlet cup will not fit tightly, and a leak will definitely appear.

A tap should also be installed at the connection point of the drain tank so that it is possible to carry out repair and cleaning work without completely turning off the water.

Dismantling

Unscrew the mounting bolts

Disassembly diagram
With the old Soviet fastening method, you must first remove the bolts. They can be unscrewed or simply broken. Most often, they are no longer susceptible to the influence of the tool, so it is easier to break off the heads. Then you will have to break out the toilet itself. It is very firmly mounted into the sewer pipe, because in those days they made it to last for centuries. Having completed dismantling, you need to clear the work area for installation of a new unit. If the model is relatively new, then you won’t have to break anything. You need to unscrew the bolts, which most likely are not too rusty yet. Next, you need to disconnect the plastic pipe from the sewer system.

The need to replace the toilet

It is not always necessary to change a plumbing fixture if there are malfunctions in the sewer system. If water is constantly leaking from the tank in the bathroom, this is a serious reason to think about it.

When it drips onto the floor, and all the pipe connections are in order, then the cause of the problem is usually a chip or crack. In this situation, it is possible to eliminate the leak only temporarily; the toilet should be replaced as quickly as possible.

If water from the drain tank flows into the sewer along the wall of the bowl, then, most likely, the installation of new plumbing fixtures will not be necessary, since the cause of such a malfunction is most likely a leaky valve. Since all internal elements for flush tanks are sold separately, they only need to be replaced with new products.

Plumbing faience and porcelain are rather fragile materials that are characterized by instability to sudden temperature changes. The enamel can become covered with a network of cracks, spoiling the external aesthetic component of the device and threatening complete destruction of the bowl. If this product develops chips or other problems, the toilet should be replaced as soon as possible.

None of the toilet users can know for sure when the ceramic coating on it will not withstand and will burst under the influence of water currents, the weight of a person or as a result of internal stress. It’s good if the residents are nearby at this moment and one of them can quickly eliminate the emergency situation, otherwise the toilet of the neighbors living on the floor below will need to be repaired.

Another sign of a plumbing problem is the presence of an unpleasant odor. Most often, it is caused by improper installation of the sewer system, as a result of which the drainage stagnates in the pipes. When everything turned out to be in order with the pipeline, and the earthenware is clean, the cause of the smell should be sought in the fact that the glossy coating has begun to deteriorate.

If the integrity of the enamel is damaged and the porous structure of the sanitaryware begins to come into contact with impurities, it begins to absorb unpleasant “odors.” It will not be possible to cope with these odors, since the destruction process is irreversible. In this case, it is impossible to do without replacing the old toilet with a new one.

Another important reason for dismantling old and installing new plumbing is the planned renovation of the bathroom. Few property owners decide to keep the same fixture when changing the design of their bathroom.

Since new, more modern products appear on sale regularly, updating a bathroom with replacing plumbing fixtures can transform its interior beyond recognition. Regardless of whether you choose a classic option or an unusual model from the catalog, the process of how to properly change a toilet occurs in the same sequence.

Most common mistakes

Before changing the toilet in an apartment or house, you need to carefully study the instructions of the manufacturers of these products. It is almost impossible to avoid mistakes when dismantling and installing plumbing fixtures in the absence of relevant experience.

There are several types of plumbing work, during which novice craftsmen perform incorrect actions. Knowing them will help you avoid unpleasant surprises during installation activities.

To prevent liquid from stagnating in the sewer pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope when installing the drainage system. According to building codes and regulations, it should be from 3 to 5 percent in the direction of the sewer riser. If the question is being considered not only of how to change the toilet, but also of moving it to another place, this should not be forgotten.

Some property owners rush to replace the toilet at the very beginning of the bathroom renovation. Experts advise avoiding such actions if possible. The fact is that earthenware plumbing is fragile and during further construction work in the room there is a high probability that it will be damaged. Therefore, it is advisable to change the toilet with your own hands as a last resort.

If a bidet is already installed in the bathroom, the hanging bowl should be positioned flush with its top edge. Only in this case the plumbing fixtures look harmonious in the interior of the room and are convenient to use.

When replacing sewer pipes, inspections must be installed. Access to hatches should always be free - you can use aesthetic doors to cover them. This requirement should not be neglected, since in the event of an emergency you will have to use audits.

Replacing an old toilet with a new one without the help of a professional is quite risky, especially if you have no experience. When installing plumbing yourself, the main thing is to take your time and follow the instructions.

Choice

Installation

Children's toilet
Most often, people do not consider choosing this device a difficult matter. The list of requirements for it is limited to convenience, lightness and, sometimes, color. Most buyers don't go further than this. But in addition to external characteristics, each model has its own technical indicators. Leading companies in the plumbing market regularly update their product range, releasing more and more interesting new products. Focusing only on the appearance and convenience of the toilet, you may soon encounter problems that will not be easy to solve. Before you make a replacement, you need to think about some characteristics.

When choosing a device, you need to take into account the size of the bathroom or toilet. For large spacious rooms, it is recommended to purchase designs with a bidet and a tank. If the size of the bathroom is very small, then you can organically fit a toilet without a tank into the space. Such models have a special built-in flushing system. They are very convenient and will save space in the room. The material used to make the unit is very important. By purchasing cheap products, the consumer runs the risk of receiving low-quality ceramics, which will very soon ruin all the pleasure of the purchase. Of all the offers for the home, it is better to choose models made of porcelain and earthenware in the middle price segment. The internal shape of the bowl is of great importance. Some of the models have a special surface that protects against splashing. The design of the flushing device is also important. It is selected taking into account the features of the communication system in the house. There are three types of such structures: vertical, oblique and horizontal. To make the right choice, you need to look at the features of the flush device in your system. Today there are many models of cisterns. It is necessary to take into account the noise level of the tank, its capacity and other indicators. You should also pay attention to the location of the tank relative to the toilet itself.

Without a tank
It is known that the simplest models are easiest to install. Usually they also do not cause any particular problems during operation. By choosing a design that is too complex, the consumer may later regret his choice. In the simplest models, most problems are associated with the drain tank, which is not difficult to repair.

Preparatory work

Of course, you remember that if you have ceramic tiles on the floor, then the floor must be level. If you neglect this detail, the toilet may split or crack. But if you don’t have tiles, then be sure to make an even screed. After completing the work, leave the floor to dry for at least three days. This is due to the fact that the toilet will be mounted using toilet dowels, and in order to securely fasten them, you will need a reliable base. So it’s better to take your time than to redo it later.

Since you are replacing the toilet yourself, you can now proceed to preparing communications:

Methods for fixing the toilet to the floor

Depending on the type of flooring, when installing a floor-standing toilet with your own hands, you need to choose the appropriate mounting option for the plumbing fixture. The main thing is that the base is smooth, solid and durable. There are three main ways to attach a toilet:

• on screws or spacers (suitable for wooden and tiled floors);
• for glue (most often used when installing on tile floors, when you don’t want to drill into the tiles);
• on taffeta (an outdated method, suitable for all surfaces).

Let's look at each option in more detail so you can choose.

Fastening the toilet to the floor with screws and self-tapping screws

If you have a wooden floor, you can even fix the toilet on it using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. The main thing is that the base is level and strong enough. The main thing is to mark everything accurately so that you don’t have to drill holes several times.

The option with dowels is somewhat more complicated, but the principle is the same. It is suitable for concrete and tile floors. You need to position the toilet and mark the points for its attachment. Remove the bowl and drill holes with a hammer drill, drive dowels into them, return the toilet to its place and secure with screws.

To prevent self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws from damaging the sanitaryware, use special plastic spacers (they are usually included with the toilet). Do everything carefully, and then cover the screw heads with decorative caps.

Glue mount

Installing a toilet on a tiled floor with your own hands using glue is a simple and gentle way. In this case, there is no need to drill holes, and the bowl is simply glued along the contour with liquid nails or silicone sealant. Another reliable composition is epoxy resin.

It is important to carefully prepare the surface for installing the toilet. If it is wood, it is thoroughly degreased, and the varnish coating is treated with sandpaper to increase adhesion. It is also important to degrease ceramic tiles with alcohol or solvent.

You can make a reliable adhesive for installing a floor-standing toilet yourself, using the following components:

• epoxy resin;
• cement;
• solvent;
• hardener.

For 50 g of epoxy resin you will need 100 g of cement, 10 g of solvent and 15 g of hardener. First of all, the resin is heated to 50 degrees, and then a solvent with a hardener is added to it. All this is mixed and cement is poured.

The toilet is installed on the floor, its outline is outlined and an adhesive mixture is applied over it (not too much so that the excess does not stain the front side of the device). The bowl is placed in the planned place, and excess glue is immediately removed with a rag, after which the toilet cannot be touched for 10-12 hours.

For taffeta

Installation of floor-standing toilets on taffeta is rarely practiced today - this is an ancient method. Today it is mainly used when installing equipment on wooden floors. A hole is cut in the floor along the contour of the device, after which it is filled with cement and the prepared taffeta is immersed in it. To strengthen the connection, you can hammer nails into the bottom of the taffeta.

When the cement has hardened, the toilet is placed on the taffeta and screwed in place. The method is quite labor-intensive and old-fashioned, and not always aesthetically pleasing, so it is resorted to in extreme cases when the other two options cannot be implemented for some reason.

Replacing the tank

toilet cistern installation

Replacing the toilet tank yourself is the last stage of the work associated with replacing the toilet. If we are talking about a barrel that is attached to the toilet shelf, then the pipe must be connected to the neck using a rubber cuff. This will be quite enough to ensure a strong and tight connection. One third of the rubber cuff is put on the pipe, and the remaining two thirds are turned inside out. Then this part must be pulled over the previous one. Here we get a situation where the end of the pipe is released. Then the pipe and neck are combined with each other. The inverted part of the rubber cuff is pulled over the neck. Thus, we can say that the tank is perfectly secured. No additional action is required. The rubber cuff is enough to ensure a tight connection. At the same time, it is worth checking the tightness of the cuff nozzle so that unpleasant events do not happen to the neighbors below.

attaching the toilet cistern to the toilet itself

Sometimes a situation arises when the tank is mounted a short distance from the toilet on the wall. In this case, a rubber cuff alone is not enough. You'll have to put in a little more effort and skill. In this case, a pipe is screwed to the barrel, and its opposite end is lubricated with red lead and wrapped in tow. The neck of the toilet and the pipe itself are connected by means of a cuff. It is fixed to the pipe using a thin wire. Now you can energize the flush tank and adjust the water level in it.

Thus, the work on replacing the toilet can be considered completed. As you can see, all actions do not require any special training. The work can easily be done with your own hands. Of course, if we are talking about a toilet that is installed on the floor. Otherwise, it is difficult to do without the help of a plumbing specialist. By the way, even before starting work on replacing a floor-standing toilet, you should consult with a professional. He will help you understand all the intricacies of the work. For those who are well versed in the work associated with installing plumbing, this manual will definitely help. It is also suitable for those who have never tried to do such work on their own before. Here you can find detailed instructions describing all the main stages of the work, and also attach a video showing clearly how to replace a toilet with your own hands. Many will definitely find this guide useful. In addition to the work associated with installing the barrel and the toilet itself, it provides information on how to correctly dismantle the old unit so that there are no further problems in operation. The video will help even those who decided to save money and not call specialists, although this is the first time they are dealing with this type of work. Everything is shown clearly and will be understandable to absolutely every person.

Dismantling

Let's say it like it is - removing the old toilet with your own hands will not be easy. There are rare occasions when it is not too securely in place and all you need to do is disconnect it from the water and sewer supplies. But if you have an ordinary apartment in, then things are not so smooth, since, as a rule, the toilet is walled up in the floor, and it is not possible to get it out of there. Then you will have to break the toilet with your own hands.

When dismantling the cast iron tee, note that it has one outlet with a diameter of 10 cm for the toilet and 7.5 cm for other sewer pipes. Since you will be replacing the pipes with plastic, you will need a 5 cm bend so that you don’t have to install a reduction in the tee

You can replace such a tee due to its large dimensions - a plastic one will be more compact. It must be removed by carefully loosening it so as not to accidentally damage the intermediate tee standing on the sewer riser.

Toilet replacement process

How to install a toilet: general principles

We will not talk about products suspended and mounted on a special installation - they have their own installation features. Let's talk about traditional floor-mounted toilets.

• The first stage is preparing the installation site and the product itself. At the same time, the method of fastening is selected: with screws (if the design provides for it), with adhesive paste, with cement.
• At the second stage, the toilet is connected to the sewer and secured to the floor using the chosen method.
• On the third one the tank is mounted.
• On the fourth, connect the tank to the water supply system and check the performance of the system as a whole.

When installing a toilet with your own hands in place of a dismantled device, you may also need to restore the floor covering and replace the adapter to the sewer system if the new product has a different type of outlet.

Installation of a hanging bowl and a hidden tank

It should be noted that the work on how to change a toilet of a conventional design to a wall-hung product with a hidden drain container yourself differs from the previous option in greater complexity. In this case, it will be necessary not only to replace the plumbing equipment, but also to repair the floor covering, build a false wall with its further finishing with tiles or other modern materials.

You have to attach the hanging bowl to a durable installation. After finishing the walls, the fixed metal frame will not be visible. When carrying out renovations in a combined bathroom, when decorating the interior, it is advisable to install a wall-mounted washbasin and a bidet of a similar design.

A detailed description of how to change a regular toilet to a wall-mounted one is as follows:

1. Mark the location of the plumbing fixture. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 millimeters and an inlet is connected to it.
2. Try on the purchased installation, which is a rigid frame for installation. You need to decide on the height. The standard placement is 450 millimeters from the floor to the seat and 100 millimeters from the floor covering to the bottom edge of the seat.
3. Using a marker, mark the places of fixation to the floor and wall of the bathroom so that they exactly coincide with the mounting holes.
4. They are prepared using a hammer drill and the frame is installed. Using a level, check the correctness of the installation work.
5. Water is connected to the drain tank.
6. The installation kit includes a diagram for cutting plasterboard sheets to cover the installation site. GCR is attached to the metal profile and to the installation. It is better if they are moisture resistant.
7. Finishing is carried out taking into account the personal preferences of residents.
8. When replacing a toilet bowl, it is connected to a corrugated sewer pipe and a drainage system, not forgetting the need for sealing.
9. The bowl is screwed directly to the installation frame through drywall and tile using pins.
10. The device is connected to the sewer system and the drain tank.

Despite the fact that the process of replacing an old toilet with a wall-mounted product takes a lot of time, the result of such a repair looks stylish and expensive. The work of installing an electronic plumbing fixture with the addition of automatic hygiene functions has much in common with fastening and connecting a conventional product, but there are still some nuances.

The fact is that to connect a smart wall-hung toilet, you need to provide it with power. For this purpose, a separate line is usually laid, since smart equipment is sensitive to voltage drops in the network.

Installation instructions

Toilet set

Direct installation of the toilet occurs in stages and depends on the type of tank design:

1. "Compact" . Toilet with traditional design: bowl and separate cistern
2. "Monoblock". The bowl of the product forms a single whole with the tank
3. Hidden mechanism and hanging design. The tank is installed in the wall, and the bowl is “suspended” or installed on the floor

Traditional toilet and monoblock

Nature of work when installing a traditional bowl in a bathroom

Installation of the bowl and tank occurs according to the following scheme:

1. They try the bowl on the base, mark the place of future installation, where they drill holes for fastening
2. Dowels are inserted into the resulting holes. The tiles along the outline of the sole of the bowl are coated with silicone
3. The bowl is installed so that the mounting holes of the base and the device coincide. Level installation is checked using a building level
4. Insert the screws and tighten through the seals until the coupling is rigid.
5. Fasteners are masked with plugs
6. Install the seat, lid, connect the toilet to the sewer system
7. Install the tank (most often tanks are sold already assembled, but according to the instructions it is easy to assemble the unit yourself)
8. Connect the tank to the water supply system

Hidden (suspended) design

Installation of a hidden structure

In this case, the tank mechanism is located in a wall installation, which does not protrude beyond the wall and looks like its structural part. Most often, this option is combined with a wall-hung toilet bowl.

The method is suitable for horizontal and oblique outlet drains.

Diagram of a toilet with a hidden cistern design

For such structures, the operating procedure is as follows:

1. The frame is installed - a metal frame 130–140 cm high with fasteners for the future tank. The installation is secured to the wall with brackets from above and screws from below.
2. When installing, the flush button is mounted at a level of 1 m from the floor, the toilet itself is at a height of 40 cm from the base, and the tank is 15 cm from the wall. In this case, the drain pipe should exit at a level of 20 cm from the floor
3. The tank is mounted and connected to the frame
4. The installation is covered with plasterboard, leaving holes for the flush button, pipes and pins on which the toilet bowl is attached
5. Drain holes are masked with plugs
6. If desired, drywall (preferably moisture-resistant) is finished with tiles
7. The tiles around the sewer hole are coated with sealant
8. The outlet of the bowl is connected to the sewer outlet. Mount the toilet bowl by screwing it to the pins on the frame

For a floor-standing (attached) toilet, the procedure for installing the cistern on the installation remains unchanged. The bowl itself is connected to the sewer in the traditional way.

For suspended structures, it is important to control the level so that the bowl is installed level

When installing suspended structures, it is important that the pipe section between the sewer system and the outlet pipe is short - this will prevent blockages.

Preparation process

Types of pipe supply from the tank to the plumbing

When choosing a toilet, it is important to consider the type of connection of the tank to the water supply system. There are side and bottom inlets

With the lateral type of supply, the tank is connected from the side; this option is more popular.

In the lower type of supply, the tank is connected from below; this option is considered quiet and allows the pipes to be hidden from view. The sideways type is gradually pushing out of the markets.

It is necessary to purchase a suitable type of supply for the existing sewer structure if there are no plans for a major replacement of water supply pipes.

Tools you will need when replacing a toilet structure

To replace a broken toilet, you will need standard tools. The composition of the kit varies depending on the characteristics of the out-of-service plumbing, the type of toilet, the condition and location of the pipes.

You will need a hammer drill, a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench, a chisel with a hammer, a hacksaw, a rubber spatula, a measuring level, safety glasses and work gloves.

An adjustable wrench is used when connecting a water supply. A hammer drill is used to make holes in a concrete wall or floor for attaching a tank or bowl. Screwdrivers are needed to tighten screws. Silicone sealant is used to process joints.

What items to prepare in advance

To quickly dismantle and install new plumbing fixtures, you need to buy the necessary items in advance, namely a compact toilet. The composition includes rubber sealing rings, fasteners, and a tank drain device. If there is a cast iron riser installed under the toilet, you will need a chisel and hammer. When installing the bowl for accuracy, use a measuring level.

Consumables you will need when replacing plumbing fixtures

If there is a shortage of bolts, screws, washers, or dowels in the mounting kit, you can independently purchase the missing ones.

The process of dismantling an old toilet

Dismantling modern equipment will not cause many difficulties. The process of dismantling outdated plumbing has its own nuances if the sewer system consists of a cast iron pipe.

If the toilet is attached to a wooden stand, it is quite easy to remove. The stand itself is removed and the floor hole is filled with a special screed.

A step-by-step description of the dismantling of modern toilets

First of all, we limit access to water, then drain the water from the tank. We remove the remaining water using a bucket and a rag. At the bottom of the tank, unscrew the bolts and remove it, take out the corrugated pipe or plastic eccentric connecting the sewer and the bowl. It is necessary to wipe the bowl dry with a cloth or sponge. Use a wrench to unscrew the fastenings under the bowl, and it can be freely removed from the floor.

Removing a toilet installed with cement mortar

In Soviet times, the installation of plumbing was done conscientiously; the toilet was installed using cement mortar. Dismantling the plumbing will be similar as for modern toilets until the bowl is removed. Using a chisel, hammer the base of the toilet in a circle and crack the cement, then rock the toilet, use the chisel to carefully split the outlet and remove the bowl. Then remove the remaining plumbing fixtures and cement mortar from the pipe.

Installing a toilet with liquid nails, epoxy resin, silicone

It is possible to install the device on the tile using liquid nails, silicone sealant, or epoxy resin. When using these methods, it is necessary to study all the pros and cons of such an installation.

If you use liquid nails, subsequent dismantling will lead to splitting of the base.

Fixing a toilet with silicone is a common method, but this method does not guarantee that the installation will not move over time. The only advantage of installing on silicone is that subsequent dismantling will take place without damage to the device and tiles.

A safe and reliable mounting method is to glue the toilet to the floor using epoxy resin. But this also has its drawbacks; when dismantling, the tile covering will be damaged.

Installation using all three methods is similar to mounting on cement mortar. The first step is to mark the edges of the leg on the tile. Then degrease the joints, namely the edges of the base and the tiled surface. Apply the mixture to the tiles and the base of the device, then press well and wait until the mixture hardens.

The nuances of choosing a new plumbing fixture

Before carrying out renovations in the bathroom, you should carefully prepare for it. You especially need to think about how to change the toilet in an apartment with your own hands when the residents continue to use the toilet.

In this case, the plumbing fixtures should be changed as quickly as possible, but without proper organization of repair work this becomes impossible. First of all, they select a suitable model, prepare all the tools and building materials, and then begin to implement their plans.

The most important thing before installing and dismantling the toilet is to purchase a new plumbing fixture. Depending on the selected model, a set of tools and materials is prepared to perform the replacement.

There are two types of toilets:

• floor;
• hanging.

Floor-standing models are more popular and their choice is huge. They come in “compact” and “monoblock” types, with separate tank and bowl, as well as with a hidden drain system.

A monoblock is a product that combines a water tank and a bowl into a single system. In a compact toilet, these two parts are sold as a set and are connected during installation - this is the most popular option presented on the domestic market of plumbing products.

Retro models, during installation of which the tank must be placed under the ceiling and connected to the bowl with a pipeline, have become increasingly rare in recent years. In them, to flush, you need to pull a string or chain with a handle. Such plumbing fixtures look appropriate in a bathroom decorated in the appropriate style.

A modern solution is to install a hidden drain system. Before replacing an old toilet with a new one of this type, it is necessary to consider the construction of a false wall, behind which the flush tank with the installation system will be hidden. Externally, hidden models look very neat, since only the drain button will be located on the wall, and utility lines will remain hidden.

The bowl of a wall-hung toilet is not placed on the floor. It is hung on anchor bolts mounted into the wall. As a result, there is free space under the bowl and it can be used to advantage. This design is also advantageous from a hygienic point of view. It is not difficult to wash the floor underneath, but dirty residue often collects around the floor product.

Another important point that should be taken into account before replacing the toilet with your own hands is the direction of release from the bowl, which comes in three types:

• at an angle;
• straight;
• vertical.

As for devices with a vertical drain, they are usually used in homes in America and China. Its convenience lies in the fact that the toilet can be placed anywhere in the bathroom, and communications are laid in the interfloor ceiling. This arrangement option can also be implemented in domestic sewer systems, but only in private households.

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Instructions for replacing a toilet

wall hung toilet in the bathroom

Now the main problem remains to be solved, namely, installing a new toilet. The toilet installation option depends on many factors. The most important thing is the type of fastening and the type of toilet itself. A wall-hung toilet for a small bathroom is often installed by specialists, since its design is quite complex. If we are talking about installing a floor-mounted option, then you can use traditional installation methods. So, you can get to work.

Replacing a toilet can be done by installing it on a tile or concrete floor. This is the traditional method. In this case, self-tapping dowels serve as fasteners. the second option is to attach the toilet to a wooden board or taffeta. The best wood for this installation method is oak.

fixing the toilet to the floor using dowels

In this case, anchors are installed at the bottom of the board. They provide a fairly strong attachment to the floor. Nails that are driven in in a checkerboard pattern can be used as anchors. At the same time, they should protrude from the board by 30 centimeters. A recess is made in the floor, which is filled with cement mortar. Taffeta is placed in it. After the solution has hardened a little, you can screw the toilet using ordinary screws.

Regardless of the method used to secure the toilet, it is worth placing rubber washers under it to protect the base from damage. There are cases when fastening is done not with screws, but with epoxy glue. For proper connection, the surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and then degreased. Only after this can you connect them to each other. It is worth pressing the toilet tightly to the floor to ensure a reliable and durable connection. The toilet cannot be used immediately. First, you need to soak it for 10-12 hours so that the solution or glue can harden.

You should also pay special attention when connecting the toilet to the drain line. The part of the toilet that connects to the sewer is called the outlet

Moreover, it can be straight or oblique. Any outlet has grooves that must be coated with red lead diluted in drying oil. The release itself must be wrapped with a resin strand. At the same time, you should ensure that it does not reach the pipe by 2-4 millimeters. If this rule is not followed, resin strands may get into the pipes and clog them.

The outlet itself must then be inserted into the socket. In this case, the annular gap is caulked using flagella made from linen yarn. After this, the gap must be sealed with cement mortar.

Recommendations for redevelopment

Layout of the toilet in a narrow bathroom.

When building houses at the design stage, the bathroom and toilet are located in such a way as to use a small area with maximum efficiency. Despite this, many people subsequently redesign these rooms and combine separate rooms. In addition, plumbing fixtures are changed or supplemented with new equipment: the bathtub is replaced with a shower stall, and a bidet is placed next to the toilet.

Before you begin, you should create a bathroom design. If any “grand” changes are made, they must be coordinated with the relevant government agencies. In addition, you need to focus not only on your preferences, but also on building codes.

To better carry out the process, it is recommended to listen to the following advice from experts. Before purchasing and installing new plumbing fixtures (for example, a bidet), it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the water supply and sewerage systems. Any little thing in the future may lead to the need to disassemble the entire system.

Particular attention should be paid to the layout of a small bathroom. You should immediately decide where all the important plumbing units will be located. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the plumbing fixtures and the standard distances between them.

Before you start planning and purchasing, it is recommended to decide on the models of plumbing: bath or shower, toilet, sink, bidet.

Toilet cistern installation diagram.

Installing a toilet and bidet requires special attention. They should be located directly next to the sewer riser. Otherwise, the likelihood of clogged drain pipes from the toilet and bidet increases significantly. This is due to the fact that the angle of inclination will not be enough for high-quality drainage of the contents. It is recommended to place the toilet at a distance of no more than 1 meter from the central riser, and other plumbing fixtures at a distance of no more than 3 m. Otherwise, installation of an air duct may be required.

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In a large bathroom, this problem can be solved by installing a toilet or bidet on a raised platform (for example, on a podium).

Carrying out work to dismantle the old toilet

To change a toilet with your own hands, first dismantle it. If the device is not too old, there are usually no problems with this process. When the model of plumbing and cast iron sewer pipes are still Soviet-style, in this case you will have to work hard.

If the device is not in very bad condition, the dismantling process will not be too laborious:

1. First, before draining the toilet when replacing it, turn off the water pipe.
2. Prepare containers for collecting water and rags.
3. Disconnect the tank by unscrewing the bolts from below.
4. Remove the plastic eccentric or corrugation connecting the bowl outlet and the sewer system.
5. Using a regular sponge, remove any remaining water in the container.
6. Using a wrench, unscrew the fasteners located on the sides of the base; there are usually 2 or 4 of them.
7. Use a knife to remove the silicone sealant from under the base.
8. The bowl is removed from the tile.

In the past century, all installation work was done in such a way that the plumbing would last for decades. Until now, when replacing a toilet in a Khrushchev-era building, you can find the device mounted on cement mortar and embedded in a screed with rags wrapped around the base and finally covered with several layers of paint. In this case, its connection with the sewer pipe is covered with a thick layer of solution.

Now this installation method looks ridiculous, but until the home craftsman has to dismantle the rare device. In cases where ceramics are not a concern, the toilet bowl can be dismantled in parts. To do this you will need a hammer and chisel.

You must first knock at the junction of the bowl and pipe, while simultaneously rocking the mount. If the structure does not give in, you should hit the neck of the plumbing fixture and it will crack. After this you can remove it. The main thing is not to hit the cast iron pipe with a hammer, since it is fragile and will crack easily.

DIY toilet installation

You can install the toilet in the bathroom yourself. First, the old toilet is dismantled. The process goes as follows:

1. Draining water from the tank.
2. Turning off the water supply.
3. Disconnecting the toilet from the floor. If it is attached with screws, they must first be unscrewed; if it is cement, then it should be carefully broken.
4. Detaching the bell: the corrugation is simply removed; if the bell is cast iron or plastic, then it is disassembled or cut down.

After dismantling the old toilet, the following preparatory work is carried out:

1. Cleaning the floor from dirt, cement residues, glue, silicone.
2. Surface preparation. It is necessary to level the floor if its evenness was damaged during dismantling. Next, you need to prepare holes for fastenings for the new toilet. You can also use old holes if they are in good condition, do not crumble and hold the dowels well.

Toilet installation diagram.

After all the work has been done, they proceed directly to the installation of a new toilet in the bathroom. It can be attached using screws, cement or epoxy resin. The most convenient and common way is to use screws and bolts. Rubber gaskets must be placed under the heads. It is necessary to tighten the screws gradually, on one side and the other alternately, as the toilet may crack. It is necessary to install the plumbing fixtures level.

The use of epoxy resin is possible if the floor is perfectly flat. The surface must be cleaned of debris, degreased, then roughened with a corundum stone and degreased again. Next, prepare the solution in accordance with the instructions; the mixture is applied to the surface in a layer of 4-5 mm. The toilet is pressed tightly and forcefully against the surface and kept in this state for at least 12 hours.

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Next you should proceed in the following sequence, which is the same for all types of toilets:

1. Attaching a corrugation of the required size. To do this, the bell is lubricated with sealant and connected to the corrugation.
2. Installing the toilet in place and screwing the screws (if this fastening method is chosen).
3. Filling the joint between the floor and the toilet leg with silicone. This must be done to prevent water from getting under the base of the plumbing fixture.
4. Installation of the tank. When screwing the fasteners, you must ensure that the tank is evenly positioned. After installation, it is necessary to check the tightness and proper operation of the drain tank.
5. Installation of flushing mechanisms.
6. Connecting the toilet to the water supply using a flexible hose. The ideal liner option is a reinforced hose with union nuts.
7. Checking the tightness of the connection. You need to turn on the water and make sure there are no leaks.
8. Final check of the entire system, its high-quality working condition.

It is also recommended to check the system after 1 hour. This completes the installation of the toilet in the bathroom. And if the plumbing fixture works properly, then the whole process was carried out correctly and efficiently.

Installation

Work on fixing and installing the toilet proceeds as follows:

That's all the subtleties of replacing a toilet. In conclusion, I would like to note the following: if you find out another way to change a toilet with your own hands, this does not mean that it is wrong. There are simply always several methods for solving a particular issue.

Replacing a toilet is required when the old product becomes unusable. More often, dismantling an old toilet and installing a new one is in demand in older buildings, where all communications need to be updated. Replacing the toilet tank and other parts yourself is not difficult. However, it requires basic skills in working with tools (a hammer drill, a drill, etc.) and the ability to fill and lay tiles. Read how to install a toilet in a private house with your own hands and watch the video tutorial below.

General recommendations

To avoid emergency situations during repair work and during operation of the water supply system, the following points must be taken into account:

1. Before starting the installation of plumbing fixtures, shut-off valves (ball type) are installed at the entrance to the system, which hold pressure up to 60 atm. They open and close smoothly so as not to create a point shock pressure in the system. Coarse filters and water meters are installed next to the taps.
2. For each type of installation - open or hidden - a suitable pipe material is selected. For example, for the first, steel or copper (more durable), for the second, metal-plastic (do not rust).
3. Open wiring is more visible and cheaper; It is convenient to monitor the operation of such a system. A closed one is more expensive, more labor-intensive and it is not always possible to install it, but as a result the bathroom will look more beautiful and it will be easier to clean.
4. Utilities are walled up in the floor screed or wall, covered with boxes made of plastic or moisture-resistant plasterboard.
5. Hollowing out niches and grooves is allowed only in private houses built from solid blocks or bricks, and in open-plan apartments with load-bearing walls that are thicker than in other residential buildings. Otherwise, the operations performed may not comply with those specified in the building codes.
6. Condensation should not accumulate in hidden wiring. Therefore, the pipes are wrapped in thermal insulation material. For example, foamed polyethylene (merylone), etc.

Laying wide sewer pipes into a floor screed will not work. When it is necessary to install a piece of plumbing in the middle of the room, a podium is built for it.

Installation process of a compact toilet: how to replace it yourself

In order to replace an old device with a floor-standing product of the “compact” type when installed on a tiled floor, you need to use a step-by-step description of how to replace a toilet yourself:

1. First of all, determine the location of the new device. The bowl is placed in the bathroom without fastening. You need to try to sit on it. It is advisable to try on several options.
2. Once the exact location is known, the base of the bowl is outlined with a washable marker. It is also used to mark the places where plumbing fixtures will be attached.
3. The product is put aside, and after that all the necessary marks remain on the floor. Then, using a drill with a 12-bit drill bit, holes are drilled in the tiles. If the surface is concrete, then it is better to beat it with a drill number 12. Dowels are inserted into the prepared holes.
4. Then they take a corrugation or cuff to connect the outlet of the device to the sewer system. The connecting element is placed in place, having previously treated the joint with sealant.
5. The new bowl with corrugation is installed correctly. Bolts are threaded through the mounting lugs and screwed in using an adjustable wrench. The main thing is not to overdo it when performing this work and not to damage the ceramics.
6. The device is connected to the sewer pipe, treating all joints with silicone.
7. A tank is installed on the bowl.
8. The elements are connected with bolts and the container is connected to the water pipe.

Finally, all joints and threaded connections are checked for leaks. If no deficiencies or deficiencies are found, you can use new plumbing equipment.

The process of how to change a toilet of this model yourself is simple, since modern products are designed in such a way that when they are replaced, the floor covering remains intact.

Installation procedure for a regular toilet

Installation of a floor-standing toilet Compact or Monoblock

Toilet installation drawing
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.

Marking

Markings on the floor for fasteners

Second step. We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.

Drilling holes in tiles for dowels

Third step. We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.

Fourth step. Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.

Tighten the nuts

Close with a cap

Make sure the toilet is level

Fifth step. We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.

Sixth step. We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.

We install the corrugation. We coat the connection of the corrugation with the sewer pipe with sealant. We stretch the corrugation onto the toilet outlet without additional seals

Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet

Prices for components for toilets and urinals

Accessories for toilets and urinals

If the release is made into the wall, we work like this:

• We check whether the toilet outlet coincides with the sewer pipe. If everything is in order, we connect using a sealing cuff. If there are displacements, we use corrugation;
• we treat the ends of the connecting element with silicone sealant and connect the toilet to the sewer;
• We screw the plumbing product to the floor.

  
  Sealing the joint between the toilet and the floor covering

If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following:

• install a screw flange with a lock on the floor, where the drain pipe exits;
• We see a hole in the center of the flange. The sewer pipe must go into it;

  
  Fastening

  
  Fastening

  
  Fastening

  
  Installing the wax seal

• installing a toilet. The screw flange collar must fit into the toilet outlet socket. We rotate the cuff, ensuring complete fixation;
• We seal the connection using a special silicone compound.

  
  Installing a toilet

Helpful advice! If the connection of the toilet bowl to the drain pipe is made using corrugation, in most cases sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.

Seventh step. We are installing the tank. Drain mechanisms are usually sold already assembled. If the mechanism is disassembled, reassemble it according to the manufacturer's instructions (the assembly procedure may vary slightly for different models).

Lubricate the reservoir ring with sealant

Connecting the cistern

Tank mount

Tighten the tank bolts

Closing the lid

We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.

The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:

• we tighten the first bolt so that the tank is skewed towards it by about 1.5-2 cm;
• press the raised edge of the tank with your hand and tighten the second bolt.

  
  Installation and connection diagram for the drain tank

Eighth step. We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.

Connect the water supply hose

Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use.

When is replacement needed?

If various kinds of problems appear with the toilet, this does not mean that it is necessary to change it. There are cases when it is enough to simply repair an element or simply replace it. This can happen for various reasons. So, for example, if there is a leak at the junction of the hose and the toilet, you just need to turn off the water, disconnect the hose and coat it with silicone sealant. This will fix the leak. Or, if the tank does not hold water and it constantly flows, then you need to open the lid and replace the drain system. These simple measures can extend the life of the toilet for a long time without the extra costs of replacing it.

Sometimes it happens that more serious problems arise that cannot be repaired.

In this case, you will have to buy and install a new toilet. The materials from which toilets are made are most often very fragile and cannot withstand shock or temperature changes. If cracks or chips appear on the toilet, this can lead to its destruction. It needs to be replaced as soon as possible.

It happens that an unpleasant odor appears from the toilet. This can be either a smell from the sewer itself, or if dirt has started to get into the cracks. Sanitaryware has a porous structure; microbes enter through chips. The only solution to this problem is replacement. Bathroom renovations can also be a reason to buy new plumbing fixtures. If you plan to carry out major renovations in the apartment, then it is best to buy and install new equipment, and not just replace the floor and walls. You can do this yourself if you carefully study and follow all the instructions.

Before installing a new toilet, you must dismantle the old one

, which most often already has an ugly appearance, is cracked in some places or covered with a thick coating. If the house is old, and the renovation was carried out many years ago, then it is unlikely to be possible to remove the old toilet without breaking it, since its base is firmly concreted into the floor. This method of cementing the floor and attaching the toilet to this place was very popular in Soviet times, when it was customary to do everything with high quality and for a long time.

Construction requirements

When designing a combined bathroom, the following SNiP standards should be taken into account:

Bathroom plumbing connection diagram.

1. The minimum area of ​​a combined bathroom, where there is a sink, toilet, bathtub and space for a washing machine, is 3.8 m².
2. There should be at least 70 cm of free space in front of the bathtub or shower stall, the optimal value is 105-110 cm.
3. There should be at least 60 cm of free space in front of the toilet or bidet, and 40 cm on both sides of the longitudinal axis of the plumbing fixtures.
4. The free space in front of the sink should be at least 70 cm, and if it is located in a niche, at least 95 cm.
5. The distance between the sink and the wall should be at least 20 cm and between the toilet and sink - at least 25 cm.
6. The sink is installed at a height of more than 80 cm from the floor.
7. The flush pipe that rinses the urinal tray should be located at an angle of 45 degrees with the opening to the wall.
8. The best option is to have a window in the bathroom, which provides natural light and ventilation. However, in the construction of modern multi-storey buildings, such a bathroom design is extremely rare. The window is replaced with a forced ventilation device, which removes condensation and odors from the bathroom.
9. The bathroom must not be located above the kitchen or other living rooms. The only exception to this rule are two-level apartments, where it is allowed to place a toilet and bidet above the kitchen.

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By fulfilling all these requirements, you can get a properly equipped bathroom.