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What is drying oil - general description

Before dealing directly with Oxol drying oil, it would be correct to consider what drying oil is in general. The most accurate definition is the literal translation of this word from Greek - “boiled butter.”

Drying oil is made from oils that are subjected to heat treatment. As a result, the resulting composition with additives does not absorb moisture and does not dissolve in water, and is able to penetrate deeply into the fibrous base. Therefore, drying oil is most often used for wood and wood boards - after impregnation, the wood will last much longer.

Impregnation is carried out on different bases, which is reflected in its color, which can be yellow, brown or brown. The more layers are applied, the more saturated the shade of the coating will be. Thus, linseed oil is close to transparent, while hemp oil becomes dark.

Oil by its nature tends to thicken, but does not dry out completely. The resulting film remains greasy for a long time. To make the impregnation dry, oils containing linolenic or linoleic acid are used to make drying oil. So, for example, in flaxseed oil their content is 80%, in hemp oil - about 70%, from 30 to 50% is found in nut, sunflower or poppy oils. How long drying oil dries on wood depends on the oil that is included in the impregnation. On average it is 24-30 hours.

Drying oil with sunflower oil Source nashaspravka.ru

Returning to the translation, let’s focus on the “boiled” layer. Without temperature exposure, the process of making drying oil takes several months. To speed up the process, the raw material is brought to a boil. As a result, components decompose, which negatively affect the drying of the film.

With the participation of metal salts, the oxidation reaction occurs and proceeds faster. Thus, the introduction of manganese provokes thickening of the mass within 6-36 hours, depending on the oil used for the production of drying oil.

On a note! Metal salts that can accelerate oxidation reactions are called “driers” (from the Latin “siccativus” - drying).

Application

For some time it was believed that drying oil was a finishing impregnation for wood. All its varieties have the property of deep penetration and moisture resistance. They are intended to protect wood from parasites and rot, metal from corrosion, and mineral base from biological damage (leveling mixtures, chalk and gypsum).

Today there is another solution for what drying oil is used for - it is used as a working base for oil putties and paints. This is due to their similar nature and high adhesion. The composition also helps to reduce the consumption of finishing materials, since the base after treatment has less water absorption.

Primer layer Source tildacdn.com

Operating principle

The thickening process of the impregnation occurs under the influence of oxygen, positive temperatures and light (mainly sunlight). As a result, the thin-layer coating gradually turns into a hard and elastic film.

The content of fatty acids in drying oil determines the drying speed of the coating. The more of these glycerides, the higher the so-called iodine number (the amount of iodine in grams that is added to 100 grams of organic matter). When considering the technical characteristics of drying oil, one always pays attention to this value.

Thus, flaxseed oil has an iodine number of 174-204, hemp oil has up to 167, and olive oil has less than 94. Compositions with a mineral nature do not contain fatty acids, so the polymerization process is not present.

Terms of use

Drying oil is a liquid that thickens over time and has a relatively low consumption. Therefore, leftovers are often stored until next use. The thick mass can be diluted with castor oil, white spirit, turpentine, and organic acids. These products do not affect the quality of impregnation. The dosage, as a rule, looks like this: 1 part solvent, 10 parts drying oil.

Dilution of thick mass Source 5domov.ru

It is important to note the ability of drying oil to burn. Organic solvents also have a similar property. If liquids are handled incorrectly, there is a risk of spontaneous combustion and even explosion.

Drying oil can only be applied to a prepared surface. It should be clean, dry and free of grease stains. You can work with a soft bristle brush or roller. Form 2-3 layers with intermediate drying. The average consumption is 130 ml/sq.m.

See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in paints and finishing materials

Storage conditions

Transportation of finished products is carried out in glass or plastic containers with a sealed lid. These materials do not oxidize and do not allow moisture to pass through with air. This container, like other options, minimizes the process of thickening the contents, but does not completely eliminate it.

Materials that support fire must be stored in ventilated areas. For drying oil, it is important to ensure the absence of sun and moisture. The container must also be airtight and tightly closed.

Packaging for drying oil Source stroimaterials.ru

Surface treatment

Before sanding, the surface should be prepared. To do this, the wood needs to be degreased and dirt and dust removed. The material being processed must be dry.

Application

You can apply impregnation using several types of tools to choose from:

• brushes with long bristles;
• roller;
• spray bottle;
• rags made of natural fabric.

Below are several ways to saturate wood with drying oil:

1. Hot impregnation. Impregnation is carried out in a water bath. The method is especially good for processing small products. We put the material in a vessel with a hot solution, holding it there for 4-8 hours, and then dry it for 4-5 days. Helpful advice: if you add red lead (2-3% of the total volume) to the composition, the surface will dry much faster - in 2-3 days.
2. Drying oil with kerosene. To create the mixture, we take the indicated components in a ratio of 1 to 1. It is acceptable to use both hot and cold solutions. However, the temperature of the drying oil affects the length of time the wood needs to be cured. If we are talking about the hot method, it will take only 3 hours, but the cold version will require 1-2 days. Drying time for the coating is 2-3 days.
3. Drying oil, paraffin and turpentine. Mix 5 parts of drying oil, 1 part of turpentine and 8 parts of paraffin. Moreover, first we dissolve the paraffin in turpentine, for which we use a water bath. Next, add the required amount of drying oil and mix the mixture thoroughly. Apply the hot composition to the wood and wait until it dries completely (this will take 2-3 days).
4. Drying oil with wax. For 20 parts of the base material we take 3 parts of wax, which we first grind. The surface will dry in 2-3 days.
5. Soaking using a plastic bag. Take an undamaged bag and pour a little liquid into it. Next, place the wooden piece in the bag. We wrap the product by sealing the hole with tape. Soaking will take several hours.

During impregnation, you need to apply a sufficient amount of drying oil to the surface. The liquid should saturate the wood well. When the coating dries, apply a second layer. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated until the tree stops absorbing the solution.

Drying

The speed of drying depends on several factors, the main of which are the content of the drying agent, temperature and humidity, as well as the type and quality of drying oil.

Impregnations with polymetallic driers dry the fastest. For example, natural linseed oil with the addition of lead or manganese drier dries in 20 hours and 12 hours, respectively. However, it is worth using both of these metals, and the drying speed will not exceed 8 hours.

Air temperature and humidity have a direct impact on drying time. For example, it will take 50% less time to dry impregnation with cobalt drier if the air temperature is at least 25 degrees above zero. The surface treated with a composition containing manganese drier dries even faster (at least 2-3 times). Favorable air humidity is also important; this figure should not exceed 70%.

After processing, the wooden part should be placed in a dry and warm place. There should be no drafts in the room. There is no need to specifically heat the surface; such actions can only cause harm.

Advice! Drying oil is a flammable and toxic material, so precautions must be taken when working with it. For protection, it is recommended to use a gown, goggles and a respirator. Impregnated containers should be stored away from fire, electrical and gas appliances.

Varieties of drying oil

The main classification of drying oil is based on its composition. More precisely, according to the nature of the main component from which the impregnation is made. So, there are 5 types: natural, synthetic, Oxol, combined and alkyd.

Natural

To produce such drying oil, only natural oils are used. The only exception is sunflower, since it requires additional solvents for polymerization. And in natural compositions only driers are allowed (up to 3% of the total volume).

Oil with functional additives is heated to +300 °C and kept in special tanks for 12 hours. If the future drying oil is additionally blown with an air flow during the manufacturing process, then the resulting drying oil is classified as oxidized or oxidized impregnation.

Technical characteristics of materials must comply with state standards. They look like this:

• almost complete absence of odor with a sweetish taste;
• drying conditions within +20-22 °C;
• composition density is about 0.95 grams/cubic meter;
• acidity not more than 5 mg/KOH;
• the content of components with phosphorus is less than 0.015%.

Flaxseed oil Source materialyinfo.ru

Saving Tips

Prices for high-quality drying oil can be expensive. Therefore, in order to save product, you can resort to making it yourself. The components are inexpensive, you just need to spend time on the cooking process itself. And be careful with hot oil. The cooking steps were described above. You can also resort to diluting the composition, although this may reduce the resulting effect.

You can resort to diluting the composition, although this may reduce the resulting effect.

Is it necessary to dry wood before painting? The answer is yes, if certain types of coloring compounds are used. Drying oil can be an excellent protective agent for wooden surfaces; natural compositions are suitable for treating surfaces inside the house. It is important to choose quality products.

Video description

How to properly treat wood with natural drying oil is shown in the video:

Oxol – semi-natural drying oil

Knowing what natural drying oil is, it is easier to decide what Oxol drying oil is, because in fact it is just a general name for semi-natural oil impregnations.

To understand the difference between Oxol and natural drying oil, let’s look at the features of the composition. In semi-natural oils, natural oils make up not 97, but, as a rule, 55% of the total volume of drying oil. The remaining 45% are solvents (40%) and driers (5%), due to which, by the way, when working with Oxol, an unpleasant odor appears that takes a long time to dissipate. It is clear that the quality of semi-natural drying oil is lower, but the cost of the finished composition is noticeably lower.

Based on their application, there are 3 subtypes of Oxoli:

• B (based on linseed or hemp oil) – used as a thinner for oil paints for exterior use;
• PV – intended for preparing putty solutions;
• SM - added to primer compositions for treating walls with ceilings indoors.

Marking Oxol Source wp.com
The fact that Oxol is lower in quality than natural drying oil is immediately visible when the treated surface is exposed to mechanical stress - the protective layer begins to collapse. The low strength of the dry residue of semi-natural drying oil is the reason that it is unsuitable for impregnating floor coverings. If you still have to use Oxol for them, then additional varnishing or painting of the surface is necessary.

In general, like natural drying oil, Oxol forms a film that prevents deep penetration of painting materials, which significantly reduces their consumption. The dry residue also provides protection to the base and improves adhesion of the surface to paintwork materials. Self-transparent with a slight sheen, the film copes with moisture and easy cleaning, biological phenomena and weather conditions. One liter, as a rule, with a single layer application is enough for 4-5 sq.m.

When working with impregnation, it is important to protect the skin from solvents and ensure ventilation in the room. It is also necessary to avoid direct contact with electricity and flame, as the composition is highly flammable. You cannot use heaters, fans, or create drafts to speed up the drying process, as this will lead to cracking of the coating.

Purpose and composition of drying oil

The product has found wide application in finishing walls and ceilings, flooring, and is also an effective means of priming various surfaces, including concrete, metal structures and any type of wood. It is used as a base for oil paints and added when mixing putty material. If you saturate the wood with drying oil, you will get a slightly dark shade, and if you apply it over a tinting varnish, you won’t be able to take your eyes off the beautiful surface.

Liquid is sometimes added to oil paints. This is done to dilute the thickness of the paint and increase the volume of the paintwork. One of the properties of the substance is its ability to prevent the appearance of fungal infections and rotting on the surface of wooden structures, and the product also prevents the development of corrosion processes on metal surfaces.

The product is not advisable to use for external treatment of objects in the open air. In this case, it will not provide one hundred percent protection and the drying oil must be covered with layers of paint.

Video description

From the video you can find out how the impregnation temperature affects the penetration depth using the example of linseed oil:

To determine the naturalness of the material, it is enough to take a closer look at the transparency and color. Real products always have a tint. Additionally, you need to familiarize yourself with the certificates (conformity, hygienic for Oxol) and production regulations (GOST, TU).

In the case of preparing silverfish in drying oil, you must understand that the heat resistance of aluminum will be reduced to nothing. If drying oil from a synthetic group is used, then you should give preference to slate, which forms a weather-resistant film.

No sediment – ​​drying oil quality Source obi.ru

It is better to treat expensive types of wood with natural drying oil. Fences can be impregnated with Oxol or a combined composition. When choosing drying oil, it is easier to evaluate it when it is in a transparent container - it is easier to see the presence of sediment. If it is available, then the quality of the product is low.

What is drying – we saturate the wood

It should be noted that drying oil is in demand among lovers of natural materials that are absolutely safe for human health. However, in other respects (strength, penetration depth, durability), compositions based on natural oils have long been inferior to impregnations based on alkyd resins with fungicides and other modifiers.

Natural impregnation is most often used in the care of wooden products, which periodically, one way or another, need cleaning and sanding. For example, these could be carpentry tools. Drying oils made from natural oils also perform well in interior work - treated wooden surfaces look very good, continue to breathe and scent the air. But for outdoor work it is better to use more modern substances that are resistant to temperature changes, moisture and pests.

Briefly about the main thing

Drying oil has protective properties against moisture, insects, fungus, mold and bacteria.

By nature, the material can be natural or synthetic. The former are made from vegetable oils and are suitable for interior work. The latter dry worse, smell stronger and are used outdoors.

Apply the composition in 2-3 layers with a brush or roller.

Drying oil Oxol is the general name for a group of semi-natural impregnations. Depending on the basis and recommended use, they are divided into types such as B, PV, SM.

Drying oil Oxol is used as an independent impregnation for wood, primer for oil compositions, thinner for paints, varnishes, putties or plaster.

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Features of application

Drying oil was first used by artists several centuries ago. Manufacturing techniques have changed quite little since then, but there are several key varieties of material that need to be applied differently.

Treatment with a combined composition is practiced due to its low cost.

(up to a third of the mixture is a solvent, mainly white spirit). The drying speed increases sharply, and the reliability of the created layer is very high. Basically, such combinations are used for exterior finishing of wooden surfaces, from which the unpleasant odor quickly disappears.

All drying oils, excluding natural compositions, contain substances prone to fire and even explosion, so they should be handled with the utmost care.

When covering wood, natural drying oil dries for a maximum of 24 hours (at a standard room temperature of 20 degrees). Hemp formulations have the same parameters. Mixtures based on sunflower oil remain slightly sticky after 24 hours. Combined materials are more stable and are guaranteed to dry in 1 day. For synthetic varieties, this is a minimum period, since their level of evaporation is lower.

Often (especially after long-term storage) it becomes necessary to dilute the drying oil. Natural mixtures are preserved in better condition, since vegetable oils can remain in a liquid consistency for a long time. Considering the danger of such compositions, in order to dilute the thickened mixture, you need to thoroughly prepare.

To do this you need:

• choose a room with excellent ventilation;
• work only away from open flames and heat sources;
• use strictly tested compositions recommended by the manufacturer for a specific material.

When working with synthetic materials, as well as with mixtures of unknown chemical composition, you should wear rubber gloves before diluting.

It is important to remember that if it comes into contact with the skin, certain substances can cause chemical burns.

Most often, when diluting drying oils, they use:

• White Spirit;
• castor oil;
• other industrial chemicals.

Typically, the concentration of the added solvent relative to the mass of drying oil is a maximum of 10% (unless otherwise specified in the instructions).

Experienced specialists and builders do not use drying oil that has remained in a hermetically sealed container for more than 12 months. Even if the liquid phase is retained, external transparency and the absence of precipitation, the material is no longer suitable for use and poses a great danger.

If you are confident in the quality of the protective coatings that have produced sediment, in most cases it is enough to filter the liquid through a metal sieve. Then small particles will not end up on the surface of the wood, and it will not lose its smoothness. You can often hear statements that drying oil should not be diluted at all, because it still will not restore its characteristics. But at least the fluidity and viscosity will improve, the penetrating ability will increase, and therefore it will be possible to cover with drying oil an area that does not require increased quality of processing.

Stabilizing wood with drying oil implies that the processed products must be completely immersed in liquid.

During operation, quality is checked step by step, carrying out control weighings at least three times:

• before soaking;
• after final soaking;
• after completion of the polymerization process.

To dry the polymer and make it harden faster, the bars are sometimes placed in the oven or boiled in boiling water. Window putty can be made from a mixture of drying oil and ground chalk (take 3 and 8 parts, respectively). The readiness of the mass is assessed by how homogeneous it is. It must be pulled, and the resulting tape must not tear.

Is it possible to speed up the drying process of drying oil on chipboard and natural wood?

The paint dries as a result of evaporation of the solvent and completely hardens on the treated surface. Drying oil used to coat wood practically does not contain this component. It dries as a result of oxidation, that is, after binding to oxygen molecules.

If drying oil is used indoors even with open windows, the process is delayed. This significantly reduces the speed of work performed, so many want to know if there is a way to speed up this process. It's not that easy to speed it up. In most cases you have to wait.

The most effective way is to use a heat gun. Increasing the temperature speeds up the drying process of the drying oil, as the humidity decreases. A fan heater can reduce the setting time by several hours. Previously, drying oil was applied hot precisely to speed up drying. An alternative method is to use driers. If you use an additive from cobalt, the time will be reduced by 2, and from manganese - by 2 and even 3 times at a temperature of +25. The main thing is that the air humidity is below 70%.

Types of drying oils Oxol

Drying oil Oxol is a semi-natural remedy. It consists of 55% vegetable oils. 40% is a solvent, the remaining 5% is driers (melted, fatty acid or oil resinates). It is thanks to driers that drying oil hardens and is actively absorbed into the wood. The solvent can be white spirit, pyrolene, nefras C4, oleoresin turpentine. The quantity and type of additives are determined according to GOST 190 78 standards.

There are two types of Oxol drying oil.

• Drying oil Oxol B - made from hemp or linseed oil. It is used to dilute ready-to-use oil paint, or for thick mixtures that are applied for exterior or interior work.

Photo of drying oil Oxol PV

• Drying oil Oxol PV - is produced using safflower, sunflower, corn, camelina or grape oil. Less commonly, a combined mixture of any of these oils is used or substitutes are taken (petroleum-polymer light resins). But, if synthetic analogues are taken, then their share should be up to 40%. This type is used only for interior work.

Technical characteristics of Oxol drying oil

The exact composition of Oxol drying oil, conditions, application features, etc., is regulated by GOST 190 78.

• The mixture is flammable. The spontaneous combustion temperature depends on the type of additive and starts at +245 degrees.
• Flash point in a closed crucible is +32 degrees.
• The smell is strong.

How to use Oxol drying oil

It is not difficult to use Oxol drying oil. The first step is to clean the surface that will be impregnated from dirt, grease, dust and old coatings. It is important that the surface is dry. Drying oil dries best at a temperature of +15...+20 degrees and humidity up to 75%. Regardless of whether the combined or simple mixture is taken for work, it can be used immediately after uncorking the jar. But first the mixture is stirred.

Apply it in a thin layer using a brush or roller. If it is necessary to make several layers, then an interval of 24 hours is maintained between them. If the liquid remains in the jar after use, it can be stored for up to 12 months. But first, the jar is well sealed. Ideally, the storage area should be dry, with low humidity and protected from fire, sunlight and any heat sources.

How to use Oxol drying oil

If you need to seal a gap in wood, you can mix drying oil with sawdust in equal proportions and seal the gap with the resulting mixture using a spatula. The mixture will not dry out quickly, but after it hardens, the gap will be eliminated for a long time.

Popular questions when applying and choosing

• On the common question of whether it is necessary to dry wood before painting, experts do not have a consensus. Often it all depends on what varnish or paint you are going to process the array with. For oil formulations, this procedure is mandatory. For alkyds it is desirable. Other varnishes or drying oil paints on wood may not adhere at all or may crack after a year.
• During repairs, oil paint can be easily removed from wood with a hairdryer and a spatula, but drying oil penetrates deeper, and if it is not removed, it can ruin the new layer. The question of how to wash off drying oil from wood is often resolved quickly. As a rule, it is enough to apply and rinse generously several times with white spirit or acetone 25%.

Important: before removing drying oil from wood, the top layer must be removed. If the array is not painted, but simply covered with drying oil, you need to sand it with sandpaper to destroy the top film.

• Natural compositions are usually dark in color. If the liquid is light and highly transparent, then it is probably a composite or simply a fake.
• For natural formulations, as well as for oxol, the seller must have not only a quality certificate, but also a hygiene certificate.
• It would be a good idea to carefully study the label. Absolutely all such building compositions are produced in accordance with any GOSTs or technical conditions. Moreover, if only specifications are indicated, you should be wary, so unscrupulous manufacturers change the technology and produce a fake.

Solvents for drying oil.

• Naturally, there must be detailed, readable coordinates and the name of the manufacturer's company. The products of any reputable manufacturer always have instructions that indicate all the details of using a particular brand.

Important: if the drying oil on the tree does not dry, then you have become a victim of scammers. Instead of high-quality natural or polymer oils, in this case the so-called fuz was used, this is a sediment or waste oil.

Externally, such a composition will have a red color and a visible sediment. Paint or varnish will not adhere to such drying oil.

• If the composition is light, liquid and cheap, then most likely they are offering you drying oil made from osprey, this is petrochemical waste. It will either harden quickly, but the film will begin to crumble. Or it won’t harden at all, as is the case with fuzz.

Characteristics according to GOST 32389-2013.

The video in this article contains additional information on the topic.

Regardless of which drying oil you decide to use, all compositions of this type belong to the fire hazard category. Both the containers themselves and the application tool should be in an isolated place, away from electrical wiring or open flame.