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A sliding wardrobe is considered a comfortable and popular piece of furniture, which is installed in almost every apartment. In this design you can store various things: clothes, shoes and other additional accessories. But before purchasing this furniture, you definitely need to find out how to calculate sliding wardrobe doors so that it looks harmonious in the interior.
Why Aristo?
Aluminum systems are rightfully considered the most optimal for sliding wardrobes. They provide easy and silent sliding, are durable and reliable. There are many originals and analogues of the German Raumplus system on sale with a characteristic, recognizable shape of the side profile - closed (symmetrical, H) or open (asymmetrical, C).
The calculation of sliding wardrobe doors (profile and internal filling) will be identical, regardless of whether you choose the original Raumlus profile manufactured by Commandor, Aristo or a Chinese equivalent. Questions may only arise regarding the ease of assembly and quality aspects during operation.
According to many furniture makers, the Russian Aristo system is optimal in terms of price and quality for assembling compartment doors. In terms of smoothness and noiselessness, it is somewhat inferior to the more expensive Commander. But the difference will be very noticeable only when installing wide compartment doors - from a meter wide or more. With standard sliding facades 600-900mm wide and correct adjustment of the sash travel, the Aristo profile is quite good in operation.
As for Chinese counterfeits of Raumplus and specifically Aristo, it depends on your luck. There are quite decent quality analogues.
Staining methods
There are several ways to decorate profiles. The main ones are:
- Anodizing. The essence of this method is to create an oxide layer. It gives the profile a beautiful appearance, prevents abrasion and tarnishing, makes the material waterproof, and strengthens its properties.
- Quartzization. Mainly used as an auxiliary method. Using brush grinding, thoroughly clean the part.
- Cataphoresis. Repeated treatment of the profile with chemical agents ensures an ideal coating without pores or unevenness. After such procedures, the surface becomes smooth and shiny.
- Wrapping in PVC. Allows you to create different textures and increases resistance to mechanical damage.
- Veneering. The profile is covered with a wood layer. Ideal for adding texture to a variety of rocks. Varnish is applied to the finished veneer.
Styles and colors of beautiful sliding wardrobes, popular designs
Anodizing
Cataphoresis
PVC film
Veneering
Step 4 - calculate the lengths of profiles and guides for cutting
The lower and upper guide (track) are cut to the size of the niche width (Lpr). If shaped stops are used, then you need to subtract their thickness from the lengths of the guides, about 2 mm on each side.
The length of the side profile is equal to the calculated door height (Hdv).
The length of all horizontal lines (top, bottom and divider) is the same. To calculate it you need to measure the width of the profile and subtract it from the width of the door twice. For the Aristo profile it is 26x2mm and 36x2mm, respectively, for the open and closed profile. According to the manufacturer’s formulas - rounded to 25 mm and 35 mm, as was already used above, in tabular forms.
That’s basically all you need to know and understand in order to calculate wardrobe doors yourself, with examples on Aristo’s profile. For all other systems (Versailles, Senator, etc.) calculations will be made according to the same principle. The main thing is to accurately measure all the components and correct the formulas.
Article about furniture
Author - designer of the company DEZALT Sukhanov Eduard
Briefly, in order not to waste your time, the optimal width can be from 650mm. up to 1000mm, and the optimal height is from 2000mm. up to 3000mm.
If you have an opening for compartment doors, divide it by the number of doors to get an idea of how many you can get. For example, you have an opening of 1600 mm, divide by two, you get 2 doors of 800 mm each, and if you divide by three, you get 533 mm. It turns out that the best option in your case is 2 doors. I'll explain why.
If you make a door 533mm. (I won’t bother you with the overlap of the door, the binding of doors on the walls, this all affects the width of the door) then when you try to move, the door may warp. You push her with your hand, and she will resist you. Watch the video, in it I clearly show what can await you.
It is better to make the door 650mm. width, in extreme cases, 600mm, but if less, you doom yourself to torment.
With such a width of 600mm, it is advisable to make the door heavier. Use mirror and glass inserts; they are heavier than laminated chipboard or MDF inserts. The door will be more weighty and will not warp at the slightest push.
I don’t advise you to play with the difference between the doors in the closet, when one door is 400mm, and the other two are 600mm. You won’t gain much by doing this, the cabinet will be inconvenient to use, don’t forget about the drawers and that you will have a narrow entrance of 400mm into one section.
But if we are talking about a narrow entrance to a dressing room or a double-door wardrobe, we have tried the following trick several times. The opening is slightly less than a meter, 927mm. If we subtract the thickness of the planks that we attach to the sides of the walls, 895mm remains. We add 18mm to each door. for overlap, it turns out that each door will be 465mm wide, this is very little. The door will warp when pushed lightly. Then we made one door at least 500mm wide, and the second one was 430mm wide. Thus, we made one door almost complete, and the second door, I will say so, is defective. The first “wide” door will serve as the entrance to a deep closet, it will be opened more often, and the second door will be moved less often and with both hands. Naturally, everything was discussed with the client.
Look what we did in the video.
Of course, the symmetry is broken, the right door is narrower, so it is less visible than the left one. But the mirror visually masks this asymmetry, everything seems uniform.
The wider the doors, the more beautiful they look. The widest doors we made were 1400mm. It is better not to use glass in such doors, they will be too heavy. If the wheels can withstand 5-7 years, then aluminum is unlikely. Most likely, the lower screws of the wheels, on which the weight of the doors presses, will push through the aluminum with their heads and the door will sit on the rail. To prevent this from happening, use lighter material as inserts, for example thin 8mm chipboard. Italian plastic is perfect for such purposes, but its price is exorbitant. You can also use thin MDF, it is slightly heavier than laminated chipboard, but of course lighter than glass.
I don’t recommend making wide doors in hallways; moving them is still a little more difficult than narrow ones. The volume of the door and its weight affect. Closers can be installed on wide doors, but they last less because the door weighs quite a bit and the mechanism wears out faster.
For the living room or bedroom, you can make wide doors. Firstly, it will be prettier, and secondly, you will use the closet in the bedroom a little less often than, for example, in the hallway. In the hallway, as a rule, there is a closet common to all family members. Each resident uses the closet several times throughout the day. But in the bedroom, the furniture is usually used by those who sleep in it, usually 2 people. Therefore, beauty, in my subjective opinion, comes first in bedrooms and living rooms. Make the doors wider.
Let me sum it up.
If you have a 1 meter opening for compartment doors, I would not recommend making compartment doors. Consider an option with swing doors or accordion doors.
One more tip. (This German brand produces the coupe system) has a special mechanism for the lower rollers, which prevents the narrow door from warping. We ourselves have never worked with it, but we know that it exists. If you have extra money (Raum+ is a very expensive profile), then you can install narrow doors with lower locks.
Take a look at some of our works with wide sliding doors.
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Kinds
There are several types of guides that can be used for a sliding wardrobe. Often, a set of guides is purchased and used together, which guarantees a high-quality device for opening or closing doors. All varieties have their own characteristics and installation rules. If you choose a Versailles cabinet, then all the elements in it are of high quality, so the baskets, guides, profiles and other parts last a long time and are convenient to use.
Upper
The top rail is fixed at the top of the cabinet. With its help, the door is suspended on the element after it is secured, and then moves freely using support rollers.
Usually a double design is used, which involves the use of not only the upper element, but also the lower one, as this prevents the possibility of vibration and skewing of the door leaf.
The upper guides are fixed using ordinary self-tapping screws or a press washer is often used. It is also possible to perform the process with universal screws equipped with a mandatory countersunk head. The installation process itself is carried out simply by sequential steps:
- holes are made in the guide with a 4 mm drill, and the distance between them is about 30 cm;
- if universal screws are used, then an additional countersink is made in each hole, intended for the head of the fastening element;
- the guide is inserted into the desired area of the cabinet;
- it levels out;
- fixed with selected fasteners.
It is better to use self-tapping screws for these purposes, as they are really easy to work with. It’s easy to fix the top guides for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, so if this element fails, it will be easy to replace it.
Lower
The lower rail has a similar device to the upper one, but the lower profile for cabinets is used as the supporting part. The best models, such as the Versailles cabinet, consist of a set of guides, which prevents the door from possibly falling out or moving.
Installing the bottom rails is considered a simple process:
- holes of the required size are made in the element for self-tapping screws;
- you cannot immediately fix the structure to the cabinet, since it is important to move it slightly inside the furniture by about 2 cm, and this should be controlled using a level;
- After finding the correct location for installing the element, it is fixed.
Since the bottom rail extends slightly into the cabinet, it is important to ensure that it does not distort baskets or other storage systems in the structure.
It is impossible to choose which guides exactly, since the doors must be equipped with these two types. If there is only one option, it will not last long and will also create difficulties in using the cabinet.
