For the manufacture of furnishings, various elements for connecting parts are used. Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its own undeniable advantages. They are especially often used for assembling cabinet furniture, ensuring a sound and durable connection of structural parts.
Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its own undeniable advantages.
It is important to select fasteners based on the material and its density, thickness, etc.
Self-tapping screws have different types.
This type of fastener, known as a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end. The head of the element has a notch (straight, cross or polygonal) for twisting it into the fabric. To more quickly connect parts of a cabinet or other object, for elements with a sharp end, use a screwdriver (in the absence of a screwdriver).
The selection of self-tapping screws is also influenced by the type of design and the desired appearance of the product.
Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into a wooden panel or chipboard. For hidden fastening of furniture parts, an eccentric coupler is used, in which self-tapping screws play a major role. As a result of this type of assembly, tables or other objects are neat, without external traces of installation that spoil the appearance of the product.
This type of fastener, known as a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end.
Important!
The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above. These fasteners are designed for thick solid wood panels.
Self-tapping screws are used to fasten parts without prepared holes or with them.
The appearance of the product is affected by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.
Depending on the material and features of the design parts, there are two types of fastenings:
- with rare carvings and a sharp end;
- confirmations.
Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into a wooden panel or chipboard.
The first type is used for solid wood, chipboard, laminated chipboard and MDF. May vary in length and diameter.
For your information.
Short screws are used to assemble narrow panels and plywood.
The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above.
The second is used for making furniture mainly from wooden boards of sufficient width. It differs in that at the junction of the thread and the smooth upper part it begins to thicken. Confirmats often have a flat end and therefore require prepared holes.
Confirmats often have a flat end and therefore require prepared holes.
These fasteners are designed for thick solid wood panels.
Advantages and disadvantages
For furniture layout, fastenings are of utmost importance. And the appearance of the product is influenced by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.
For furniture layout, fastenings are of utmost importance.
The advantages of self-tapping screws as fasteners are:
- eccentric coupler;
- neat and reliable connection;
- precision in fitting parts.
When purchasing self-tapping screws, it is important to consider many points.
They are especially often used for assembling cabinet furniture, ensuring a sound and durable connection of structural parts.
If a set of self-tapping screws is used to assemble a furniture structure, then if you work with them carelessly, the following is possible:
- distortions of parts;
- loosening of the fastening when screwing in repeatedly.
The base of the screws is steel.
What is a self-tapping screw?
This type of fastener, known as a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end. The head of the element has a notch (straight, cross or polygonal) for twisting it into the fabric. To more quickly connect parts of a cabinet or other object, for elements with a sharp end, use a screwdriver (in the absence of a screwdriver).
The selection of self-tapping screws is also influenced by the type of design and the desired appearance of the product.
To connect specific parts, elements with different coatings are used.
Self-tapping screws are used to fasten parts without prepared holes or with them. Due to the thread, the screw is easily screwed into a wooden panel or chipboard. For hidden fastening of furniture parts, an eccentric coupler is used, in which self-tapping screws play a major role. As a result of this type of assembly, tables or other objects are neat, without external traces of installation that spoil the appearance of the product.
This type of fastener, known as a self-tapping screw, is a type of metal screw with a screw thread and a pointed or flat end.
Important! The length of the screws can reach up to 50 mm and above. These fasteners are designed for thick solid wood panels.
The appearance of the product is affected by the possibility of installing a hidden connection.
How to choose?
When purchasing self-tapping screws, it is important to consider many points. The base of the screws is steel. To connect specific parts, elements with different coatings are used. When assembling furniture, you must consider:
- length of fastening elements;
- their diameter;
- cap thickness;
- carving;
- degree of corrosion (depending on the coating).
To connect specific parts, elements with different coatings are used.
The selection of self-tapping screws is also influenced by the type of design and the desired appearance of the product.
The color of the fasteners is also important when the connection is open. In this case, it is worth choosing elements to match the canvas.
The color of the fasteners is also important when the connection is open.
To make a table or cabinet, you may need different screws, so it is recommended to consult with the seller if you are going to create the furniture yourself.
It is worth choosing elements to match the canvas.
Self-tapping screws have different types.
Confirmat is used for a more reliable screed. At the same time, a cap is often placed on the cap to make the fastener look more aesthetically pleasing.
To make a table or cabinet, you may need different screws.
Self-tapping screws are used to fasten parts without prepared holes or with them.
Video
For the manufacture of furnishings, various elements for connecting parts are used. Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its own undeniable advantages. They are especially often used for assembling cabinet furniture, ensuring a sound and durable connection of structural parts.
Self-tapping screws are a popular type of fastener that has its own undeniable advantages.
It is recommended to consult with the seller if you intend to create the furniture yourself.
Self-tapping screws have different types. It is important to select fasteners based on the material and its density, thickness, etc. The selection of self-tapping screws is also influenced by the type of design and the desired appearance of the product.
Self-tapping screws have different types.
VIDEO: Furniture screws
To work with chipboard, plywood, wood and fiberboard, a special screw called confirmat is most often used. It is also known as Euroscrew or Euroscrew. This type of fastener is indispensable in furniture production.
Chipboard screws - features
A confirmat is the same screw with a rounded head and a shaft, only a little thicker and its end is blunt. The thread on the rod is asymmetrical and smooth, thanks to which the screw is easily screwed in and securely connects the surfaces.
Features of installation with furniture screws for chipboard
To fasten furniture parts using chipboard screws, you need to pre-drill a hole and then screw the confirmation into it. The fastening point is closed with a special colored plastic plug.
Quality from
The OKREP online store offers confirmations from the manufacturer. We offer a choice of stainless steel and carbon steel mounts. All products have an anti-corrosion coating and are distinguished by excellent consumer characteristics: reliability, durability, environmental friendliness, long service life.
Only with our confirmed screws will your fastening units be practically eternal.
How to secure with self-tapping screws. Screwing screws into various materials, wood, metal, chipboard, fiberboard, plastic, brick, concrete (10+)
How to screw in a self-tapping screw - The process of screwing in a self-tapping screw
Slit - smiley :) Incredible, but true
The Japanese plant Komuro Seisakusho released a batch of fasteners with a non-standard slot in the shape of a smiley face. The author of this funny idea is designer Yuma Kano. Unfortunately, the new product has not yet been presented on the domestic market.
We hope that now you have once and for all figured out the issue of the purpose and size of fasteners. We will be grateful for recommendations, criticism and detected inaccuracies.
To work with chipboard, plywood, wood and fiberboard, a special screw called confirmat is most often used. It is also known as Euroscrew or Euroscrew. This type of fastener is indispensable in furniture production.
Chipboard screws - features
A confirmat is the same screw with a rounded head and a shaft, only a little thicker and its end is blunt. The thread on the rod is asymmetrical and smooth, thanks to which the screw is easily screwed in and securely connects the surfaces.
Features of installation with furniture screws for chipboard
To fasten furniture parts using chipboard screws, you need to pre-drill a hole and then screw the confirmation into it. The fastening point is closed with a special colored plastic plug.
Quality from
The OKREP online store offers confirmations from the manufacturer. We offer a choice of stainless steel and carbon steel mounts. All products have an anti-corrosion coating and are distinguished by excellent consumer characteristics: reliability, durability, environmental friendliness, long service life.
Only with our confirmed screws will your fastening units be practically eternal.
Furniture screed is used only in furniture production. When making furniture, you should not use traditional fasteners instead of furniture ties, because it has special properties that not only facilitate the assembly of furniture, but also allow you to hide the fasteners. Next, we will consider the most commonly used types of furniture screeds and their features.
Fastening parts with self-tapping screws
If a self-tapping screw is used to fasten two parts, pressing one part to another, then in the part (hereinafter we will call it the upper one), which will be on the side of the head, you need to drill a hole of such a diameter that the screw to be screwed in easily fits into it without rotation, but does not dangle in him. We measure the diameter of the screw along with the thread using a caliper and drill a hole of this diameter. In addition, you can make a recess for the cap. Now we fold the parts the way they should be secured and screw in the self-tapping screw in accordance with further recommendations. Thus, the self-tapping screw, freely passing through one part and being fixed in another, will press the parts one to another. A common mistake is not drilling the top piece or drilling with a drill bit that is too thin. The self-tapping screw does not slide freely into such a hole. It is fixed in the upper part and cannot press one part against another. A gap remains between the parts, the strength and quality of the connection drops significantly.
Driving self-tapping screws into different materials
Concrete
Self-tapping screws are screwed into concrete using dowels. Dowels are tubes made of durable plastic. Dowels are installed in holes in the concrete, and a self-tapping screw is screwed into them. The dowel forms a spacer between the self-tapping screw and the concrete and provides adhesion. Many people recommend coating the dowels with glue before installation. I do this too. The glue also improves adhesion to concrete. Holes for dowels in concrete are drilled with a drill with a Pobedit tip and a drill with a hammer drill. It is almost impossible to drill into concrete without a hammer drill. (A hammer drill is a device in a drill that taps the drill along the drilling axis simultaneously with the rotation of the drill.) If you are sure that you are drilling concrete and not plaster, brick, etc., feel free to turn on the hammer drill. The diameter of the drill must match the outer diameter of the dowel, and the inner diameter of the dowel must be suitable for the self-tapping screw. In this case, the self-tapping screws themselves can be used both on wood and universal.
Brick, cement plaster, screed, cement slabs, ceramics (tiles)
Everything is similar to concrete, but you need to be especially careful when working with a hammer drill. A hammer drill can split such a wall. It is better to drill with the hammer turned off. If, without a hammer drill, the drill suddenly stops and does not drill further, then you can turn on the hammer drill, carefully drill a little with the hammer drill, then turn it off again and drill without a hammer drill.
Soft metals. Copper, aluminum, bronze, duralumin, etc.
Let's measure the diameter of the screw pin without taking into account the thread. It is convenient to carry out the measurement with a caliper. Let's install the pointed jaws of the caliper perpendicular to the self-tapping screw, clamp it with these jaws so that they penetrate into the thread groove, and get the diameter. We choose a drill 1 - 1.5 mm smaller in diameter than the obtained size. In the material, where we will screw in the screw, we drill a hole. We screw the self-tapping screw into this hole. Before starting work, it is better to check on an unnecessary piece of the same material whether the drill is suitable. Drill a hole in it and try to screw in the self-tapping screw. The self-tapping screw should fit tightly enough, but without jamming, into the hole. If the screw cannot be screwed in, it’s too tight, then the hole should be wider; if the screw screws in too easily, then try taking a thinner drill, otherwise the screw may pop out. Use self-tapping screws with universal threads.
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Furniture screed is used only in furniture production. When making furniture, you should not use traditional fasteners instead of furniture ties, because it has special properties that not only facilitate the assembly of furniture, but also allow you to hide the fasteners. Next, we will consider the most commonly used types of furniture screeds and their features.
Tools
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The modern market for construction fasteners offers the buyer a wide selection of self-tapping screws - so necessary for any repair of products. However, reviews of these “little helpers” are not always flattering.
Why?
The thing is that home craftsmen often do not know how to screw in a self-tapping screw correctly and how to choose it correctly.
Table of contents
- Types of self-tapping screws
- Tools for tightening screws
- General technology for screwing in self-tapping screws
- How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
- How to properly tighten a screw that has been removed?
Types of self-tapping screws
There are two main types of self-tapping screws used for self-repair - for wood and universal. Their main difference is in the thread pitch - “screws” for wood are characterized by a large pitch (more rare application of thread turns).
There is a misconception that universal parts are just as good for wood, plywood and chipboard as specialized ones. No, of course, it won’t be difficult to screw them into these materials, but how well they will stay there is a big question. The fact is that the “raw material” into which the self-tapping screw is “immersed” must lie securely in the grooves of the thread, and the structure of the wood will not allow it to fit well into the narrow “grooves” of the universal self-tapping screw.
Tools for tightening screws
Fasteners can have heads of different sizes and recesses in them of different shapes and sizes. Therefore, before screwing in a self-tapping screw, make sure that you have a screwdriver or screwdriver with a suitable attachment in your arsenal. In general, it is better to have, as they say, as many attachments for the corresponding tools as possible. Plus, they should be replaced regularly, since wear of the devices during operation cannot be avoided.
Note! The best attachments are those made of tool steel with hardening additives. Do not choose the first set you come across, otherwise after a couple of days of intensive work you will have to go for a new one.
If your plans are to screw one or two screws into a non-solid surface, then you can use a screwdriver. If it’s more, you can’t do without a screwdriver. Tightening fasteners with a screwdriver is not as simple an operation as it might seem at first glance, and requires some skill. A screwdriver will do everything quickly and efficiently.
General technology for screwing in self-tapping screws
Using an awl, make a small indentation in the space reserved for the screw. Place the product “in position”. Using careful but confident movements, rotate the part until it is well deepened and secured in the material. After this, the force can be increased. Towards the end of the “process” the speed must be reduced again so as not to damage the screw.
How to screw self-tapping screws into different materials?
Concrete
Many men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is quite simple: self-tapping screws are “integrated” into concrete using dowels - durable plastic. First, a hole is made in the material, a dowel is installed there, which “accepts” the fastener.
Worth knowing! Craftsmen advise lubricating the dowels with glue before installation. This, in their opinion, strengthens the connections.
Drilling holes in concrete should be done exclusively with a hammer drill - even an impact drill may not hold up, let alone a regular one. Self-tapping screws are suitable for both wood and universal ones.
Brick, ceramic tiles, screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into these media in the same way as into concrete. The only thing is that when working with tiles, it is better to take a regular drill, since it can crack due to the excessive power of the hammer drill.
Copper, bronze, aluminum
Measure the diameter of the fastener shank excluding threads. This manipulation must be performed with a caliper. Place the pointed jaws perpendicular to the screw and clamp the product so that they completely penetrate the thread groove; determine the diameter. Using a drill with a diameter a millimeter and a half smaller than the obtained value, make a hole in the material. Screw the screw into the hole and the job is done. Use parts with universal threads.
Note! Before “making a hole” in the main structure, it is recommended to test the drill on a small unnecessary piece of similar material. Drill a hole and try to screw the product into it. The drill is considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw fits into the hole tightly enough, but does not jam. If the screw fails to “break through”, you should work with a thicker drill. Tightening the part too easily symbolizes that you need to take a thinner drill - otherwise the self-tapping screw may pop out at any moment.
Hard metals
The hole in the material should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the unthreaded rod. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with a number of hard metals - in particular, screwing these fasteners into cast iron is almost impossible.
Plastic
Not every plastic material is ready to accept a self-tapping screw, so making sure before starting work that the material fits exactly is a good idea. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic is the same as for soft metals - copper, aluminum, bronze. Recommended products - with wood carvings.
Wood, fiberboard and chipboard
Don't know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board? Believe me, nothing is simpler. The basic rule is to use only wood screws. For hard wood, thin boards, chipboard, fiberboard, pre-drilling a hole for the product is mandatory, since there is a risk of the material splitting with a self-tapping screw. For thick boards made of soft wood, you can do without this manipulation.
If you are working:
- with hardwood - choose a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw rod (without threads, of course);
- with fiberboard – 1 millimeter less;
- with chipboard or soft wood - 2-3 millimeters less.
Drywall
Mark dots on the sheet with a pencil. The optimal pitch between screws is up to 70 centimeters, depending on the expected loads on the structure. If you are using a screwdriver, you can start screwing the product in at maximum speed. After the self-tapping screw enters the surface by ½, it is recommended to gradually reduce the speed to minimum. When tightening with a regular screwdriver, all movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw correctly - ideally it should be 1 millimeter below the level of the cardboard, not the plaster! This will ensure maximum strength of the future structure. If you suddenly did not follow the technology and broke through the cardboard, the “ill-fated” place needs to be puttied, and a new fastener should be placed at a distance of 5-9 centimeters from it.
The type of self-tapping screws for drywall should be selected depending on the material used to construct the sheathing. For a metal frame, universal or metal screws are required, for wooden sheathing - wood products.
How to properly tighten a screw that has been removed?
The unscrewed part must be re-tightened exactly as it was before. It is very important that the screw fits into the same groove, at the same angle. If the product “draws” a “new path” for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an existing recess? Simply insert the part into the hole and turn it by hand without pressure. As soon as everything falls into place, you will feel it - the process will go like clockwork. There is no need to put pressure on a tight screw; you just need to remove it and try again. A little force is required only at the very end of screwing.
Now you know how to screw a self-tapping screw into drywall, concrete, brick, wood and metals correctly and what to do in case of “working hiccups”.
Confirmat
The most common type of fastener is confirmat. At the same time the easiest to use. With its help, assembling furniture is easier and faster than using other types of furniture screed. Especially if during assembly you have to drill holes for fasteners yourself. Using a confirmat, two parts are connected at an angle of 90 degrees.
Fig.1.
In order to tighten the two parts, you need to drill two holes. One in one part, with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmator head, the other, at the end of the second part, with a smaller diameter equal to the diameter of the threaded part.
As a rule, drills with a diameter of 6 and 5 mm are used for this, respectively. However, there is a combination drill available for drilling holes at the same time. It is very comfortable. There is no need to constantly rearrange drill bits or use two drills at the same time.
Fig.2.
Confirmat is a universal fastener, but it has some disadvantages and application features.
Confirmat should be used simultaneously with the use of dowels. A dowel is a wooden rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 20-30 mm (in the photo below, next to the confirmation). The dowel acts as a guide and does not allow parts to move during tightening.
Fig.3.
Despite the fact that furniture assembled using confiramate can be assembled or disassembled, furniture made from laminated chipboard does not tolerate this very well. As a rule, after one disassembly, the furniture screed no longer holds well.
The confirmation should be wrapped carefully. The best option is by hand or with a screwdriver at low speed. Otherwise, the confirmation thread turns into a drill, which breaks the hole.
Fig.4.
In order to recess the head into the body of the furniture part, you should use a wrench and do it carefully, otherwise there is a possibility of the thread breaking. Sometimes it is necessary to pre-calculate.
Con fasteners. Those. Unlike other types of fasteners, it remains visible, so it is necessary to use special plugs or stickers to hide the fasteners.
Fig.5.
Fig.6.
Eccentric coupler
An eccentric coupler is often used in the factory production of furniture. The reason for this is the difficulty of drilling holes. An eccentric coupler consists of two parts: a pin and an eccentric. The pin is installed in one part, and the eccentric in another.
Fig.7.
The main advantage of this type of fastener is that this fastener is hidden and therefore does not spoil the appearance of the furniture. In addition, this type of fastener, unlike confirmat, allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, which is important, for example, when moving. Also, using an eccentric coupler, you can connect parts at different angles.
When making furniture yourself, it is not often used due to the difficulty of drilling holes and the inability to correct the joint during assembly. The main difficulty in drilling holes lies in the hole for the eccentric. This hole is not through and requires the use of a special drill - a Forstner drill.
Fig.8.
Fig.9.
Fig. 10.
In this case, the sampling depth is about 12 mm, and the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm. The remaining wall thickness is only 4 mm. There is a risk of drilling more than necessary, thereby damaging the piece of furniture. Therefore, when drilling holes for an eccentric tie, it is necessary to use drilling depth limiters.
Fig. 11.
Chipboard installation.
I would like to especially pay attention to the first floors of apartment buildings. Here the chipboard is exposed to the damp environment from the basement. Moist air will definitely pass through the holes for pipes and joints of slabs. Try placing a small drop of water on a new chipboard. The material will swell immediately. Of course, this is a huge disadvantage of chipboard, but everything can be fixed.
We recommend covering the chipboard with drying oil before installation work on the first floors. We advise you to paint only the bottom, ends and climb a little to the top (20 - 30 cm). Drying oil has a strong odor like any alkyd enamels. Think in advance where and when you will paint the chipboard (including the time of year). This method has been tested and recommended from the best side.
If you have a flat screed on the floor, secure the chipboard to the floor with screws. Yellow self-tapping screws are perfect. Unlike other screws, their head diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the dowel (plug). This will allow you to drill and screw the chipboard to the floor without lifting the chipboard sheet.
But what to do if the subfloor is not level? Buy wooden slats. If the ceiling height allows, slats with a thickness of 40 - 50 mm are suitable. Otherwise, stock up on thinner ones 20 - 30 mm. The slats are installed at a distance of 25 - 35 cm from each other. Each rail is screwed to the floor with screws every fifty centimeters. Cut 10/10 cm square pieces from plywood. Place them under the slats, leveling the wooden frame. Plywood blanks are easily peeled to achieve the desired size. Align the outer slats first, then use thread or straighten the rest.
Important! The direction of the slats must be set, taking into account furniture and other heavy interior items. For example, cabinet furniture rests on the floor with perpendicular lines from the wall line. Therefore, we lay the slats parallel to the wall. Make marks on the walls to indicate the center of each batten. Now, having placed the chipboard on the floor, we know where to screw in the screws. We fasten the chipboard to the slats with ordinary wood screws at a distance of 25 - 35 cm.
You can also get by with only plywood blanks (10/10 mm). Draw lines on the floor every 25 - 35 mm. Now attention! Place three pieces of plywood on the first, middle and last lines. One at the beginning, one in the middle, one at the end of each of these lines.
Level all nine blanks to the desired height of the same level. It is very convenient to do this with a laser level.
Place the laser level slightly above the floor. Find the shortest distance from the laser beam to the plywood piece. Bring the height of the remaining workpieces to this distance. Glue all blanks to the floor with glue that allows you to glue wood to concrete. According to the construction rule, level and install all other workpieces at intervals of 25 - 35 mm. Then carefully place the chipboard sheet on the floor. Drill holes into pieces of plywood. Attach the chipboard to the floor with screws. We recommend using self-tapping screws that are screwed into holes without dowels (plugs). These screws are tightened with an asterisk key.
Intersectional screed
This tie is a screw and nut with which two sections of furniture are pulled together, for example, two cabinets. To tie cabinets, 2 - 4 intersectional ties are used. Depending on the thickness of the chipboard, there are intersection screeds of various sizes.
Fig. 12.
Considering that the intersection screed is used to tie cabinets, and the cabinets, in turn, are made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm, an intersection screed with a length of 32 mm is most often used. However, there are ties up to 50 mm long, which are used to tighten parts of greater thickness.
Fig. 13.
Shelf supports
There are a huge number of types of shelf supports. However, they can be divided into two groups: shelf holders for chipboards and shelf holders for glass. In turn, each of these groups can be divided into two types: shelf holders with and without fixation.
The shelf holder for chipboard consists of 2 parts: a rod and a shelf holder.
Fig. 14.
The screw is installed in the cabinet wall, and the shelf holder is installed in the body of the shelf. To install the shelf holder, you need to drill holes in the shelf and cabinet wall. For most shelf supports, the hole sizes are standardized; they are shown in the figure below. However, when installing the shelf support, you should carefully read the instructions to avoid errors.
Fig. 15.
It should be noted that shelf holders for chipboard come with or without fixation. The shelf holder with fixation has an eccentric mechanism, thanks to which the shelf will be firmly connected to the cabinet wall. Shelf supports with fixation have one more advantage; shelf supports of this type serve as additional reinforcement of the furniture structure.
Fig. 16.
Glass shelf holders have a simpler design. They are attached only to the cabinet walls using a self-tapping screw.
Fig. 17.
Shelf holders for glass without fixation are a rod or an angle. Shelf holders with fixation have a special screw with which the glass is firmly fixed and cannot accidentally fall out. Fig. 19.
Screed for table tops. Provides a reliable connection between two parts of countertops. To increase the accuracy of joining parts, it is advisable to use it together with a dowel. For a standard screed, non-through holes with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 19 mm are made in the connected parts of the tabletops. The distance between the holes should be 15 mm less than the length of the tie. The groove width must be at least 7 mm.
To tie two tabletops together, use a pair of ties. To install the tie rods, it is necessary to make recesses for the tie rod stops and a slot for the screw. This can be done in various ways. The most affordable option is the following. The recess for the stops is made with a Forstner drill of a suitable diameter; the slot for the screw can be made using a jigsaw.
Fig.20.
Types of furniture fasteners for chipboards
Conventionally, laminated chipboard furniture fasteners when assembling a wardrobe and other furnishings can be divided into two types - hidden and through. As the name implies, in the first case, the connections are visually invisible after assembly, and in the second, the heads of the screw or screw tie are visible.
Screw tie for confirmations (Euroscrews)
Confirmats are a screw with a large thread pitch. The most popular furniture fastener for chipboard panels in the assembly of wardrobe bodies with a thickness of 16-18 and 25mm. In the first case, as a rule, confirmats 5x50 are used, in the second - 7x70.
To connect the parts, it is necessary to drill with a special confirmation drill. It provides the necessary expansion to a diameter of 7-8 mm closer to the head of the confirmat, followed by a countersink for recessing the head from the front side of the chipboard at the attachment point.
Eccentric tie for hidden fastening
There are a lot of varieties of eccentric screeds, as well as names - eccentric, minifix, rafix, etc. All of them are a combination of a rod (rod, dowel) and a head (coupling, eccentric, body) of different shapes.
For different types of connections, specific types of eccentric couplers can be used, with an angular and double rod.
Eccentrics are distinguished by the type of cap - it can be designed for a hexagon, a Phillips screwdriver, or even be equipped with a convenient latch that does not require any hand tools for assembly and disassembly. An eccentric coupler is also distinguished by the shape and length of the rod. For example, the rod of rafixes is very short, because of this the eccentric itself is installed as close as possible to the end of the shelf.
In addition to the obvious advantage over confirmed ones - the possibility of hidden fastening - the eccentric allows you to repeatedly disassemble and reassemble furniture if necessary. At the same time, the attachment points do not become loose and do not lose strength over time.
The only drawback is the difficulty of installation for an inexperienced technician. An eccentric coupler requires precise calculations for installation and an understanding of how best to make the connection. In some cases, hidden fastening of chipboard on eccentrics is accompanied by parallel installation of furniture dowels for additional fixation of the part.
Hidden chipboard fasteners for furniture dowels
Furniture dowels are used extremely rarely to connect parts made of laminated chipboard. This type of fastening is more typical when working with furniture panels, plywood and wood, since it is accompanied by gluing parts and clamping with clamps. When installing a wardrobe, this method of fastening will greatly slow down the process.
But when assembling some individual elements with many partitions, furniture dowels turn out to be indispensable. For example, with cellular partitions in drawers or multi-level open shelves with coaxial joints, it is better and easier to use furniture dowels as hidden fasteners.
Shelf holders for shelves in wardrobes
The simplest shelf holder is a “barrel”, for installation of which you need to make a blind hole with a diameter of 5 mm on the inside of the side of the sliding wardrobe.
Rafixes are also used as shelf holders - an eccentric tie with a short rod. It provides additional fixation of the shelf, while it can also be removed if necessary.
You can also make removable fasteners for the chipboard shelf on shelf holders with fixation, which are installed in a similar way to “barrels”, but have a different shape of the protruding part.
Fasteners for chipboard and glass
Typically, in the design of wardrobes and additional modules, glass is used as shelves. To fasten the glass to the chipboard sidewalls, special shelf holders with a silicone “wrap” are used. It is best to purchase shelf holders with a suction cup for additional fixation of the glass shelf. For installation, you need to make a blind hole with a diameter of 5mm.
If the glass is attached to the chipboard on only one side, then it is installed on special holders with a “girth”, they are called “pelicans”, “toucans”. The size of such shelf holders and the design are selected according to the thickness of the glass and the depth of the shelf being held.
Using screws in assembling sliding wardrobes
The chipboard parts themselves are rarely connected to each other using ordinary screws - confirmats are mainly used. But to install fittings, self-tapping screws of different formats are used, mainly:
- 3.5x16 and 4x16 for fastening drawer guides and other mechanisms.
- 4x20 for attaching pipe flanges, decorative legs, thrust bearings and other fittings to chipboard.
- 4x30 for fastening facades with the body of the drawer, attracting them to the roof slats and the canopy of the wardrobe.
- Self-tapping screws 3x16 or small nails for fastening fiberboard and HDF (back walls and bottoms of drawers).
Before attaching furniture components, markings are first made on the surface of the chipboard using a thin awl. Then screw in the screws with a screwdriver. To attach long self-tapping screws through the slats and the front parts of the drawers, through holes are pre-drilled in the places where the screed is intended.
Fastening chipboard to the wall when installing a wardrobe
Built-in wardrobes often require large spans of horizontal shelves, which need to be attached not to the chipboard sides, but directly to the walls. Plastic “commander” corners in color are widely used to fasten chipboard to walls; they have a neat and modern look.
If the shelf is deep and long, then consoles and mensolo holders with a large shoulder may be required to prevent deflection. There are a lot of similar shelf supports on sale; it is possible to choose an option of a suitable size and design, as well as hidden fasteners.
Furniture corner
This type of fastener is used to connect two parts. This is a rather fragile connection method, so it is used to fasten parts that are not expected to be affected by heavy loads. Usually these are decorative elements, for example, the base of a wardrobe or mezzanine shelves.
Fig.21.
Plastic corners are often used instead of metal ones. They are no less durable, but have a more attractive appearance and the possibility of hidden fasteners. The furniture corner is attached to two mating parts using two self-tapping screws. Then the lid is snapped on, thus hiding the fasteners.
Fig.22.
The furniture fasteners discussed in the article are the most common and most frequently used, due to the fact that these are the most versatile and easy-to-use types of fasteners. In the vast majority of cases, the types of furniture fasteners described are sufficient to assemble any furniture.
This is only half the battle. To complete the fastening task, you need to screw more screws, directly into the drilled hole or into the dowels.
A self-tapping screw is a type of fastener, which is a rod with a sharp thread and a head designed to transmit torque when screwing while simultaneously cutting threads in the elements being connected.
The range of self-tapping screws for wall mounting on sale tends to be infinite. The task of selecting hardware (from the phrase “metal products”) for fastening to the wall seems insoluble. But if you put everything into detail, it becomes clear what kind of screw is required for each specific case.
Self-tapping screws are made of brass, carbon and stainless steel (the metal contains more than 13% chromium). The most widely used self-tapping screws are made of carbon steel with a protective coating. They are the cheapest.
Carbon steel self-tapping screws are available with the following types of protective coatings. Oxidized, black - for fastening in rooms with normal humidity. Galvanized silver - for indoor and outdoor use. Galvanized, yellow – for indoor and outdoor use. They have a golden decorative appearance. Look good on gold-plated door locks and hinges.
Types and types of self-tapping screws
Depending on the type of thread, there are self-tapping screws: with a universal thread, with a rare thread pitch, and with a frequent one. Self-tapping screws with a frequent thread pitch are designed for screwing into metal sheets. For example, if you need to hang a heavy picture on a plasterboard wall. Use a powerful magnet to find the place where the profile to which the sheets are screwed is located, and screw the self-tapping screw through the drywall into the profile. If the screw does not have a drill at the end, then you must first drill a hole in the metal with a diameter equal to the internal diameter of the screw thread.
For fastening sheets of roofing iron, there are special galvanized self-tapping screws of two sizes: 4.8×16 and 4.8×19 with a hex head. A type of self-tapping screws with a rare thread pitch are designed specifically for screwing into soft materials, such as plastic, plaster, asbestos, wooden boards and the like. Universal – designed for screwing into any materials. Of course, it is better to use specially designed ones, but any will hold securely.
| List of popular types of screws, their purpose and sizes | ||||
| Appearance of the self-tapping screw | Self-tapping thread pitch | Scope of application of self-tapping screws | Self-tapping screw diameter, mm | Range of screw lengths, mm |
| Average | Universal screws, designed for all types of fastening, are the most popular | 3,0; 3,5; 4,0; 4,5; 5,0; 6,0 | 12; 16; 20; 25; 30; 35: 40; 45; 50; 60; 70; 80; 90; 100: 120; 140; 160; 180; 200; 220 | |
| Frequent, two-pass carving | Self-tapping screws for fastening to metal sheets up to 0.9 mm thick without a dowel; pre-drilling a hole is required. self-tapping screws come with a drill at the tip, but are more expensive | |||
| Rare | Self-tapping screws for fastening to soft materials without dowels - soft wood, plastic, gypsum, asbestos, and the like | 3,5; 4,0; 4,5; 5,0 | 16; 20; 25; 30; 35: 40; 45; 50; 55; 60; 70; 75; 90; 100: 125; 150 | |
| Medium, herringbone profile | Self-tapping screws for fastening to concrete or brick walls by driving into a dowel | 3,0; 3,5; 4,0; 4,5; 5,0; 6,0; 8,0 | 12; 16; 20; 25; 30; 35: 40; 45; 50; 60; 70; 80; 90; 100: 120; 140; 160; 180; 200 | |
| Asymmetric | Self-tapping screws for fastening elements of modern furniture made of wood, chipboard, plywood, etc. Requires pre-drilling of a hole with a diameter of 4.5 or 7 mm respectively | 5,0; 7,5 | 40; 50; 60; 70 | |
| Variable with notch | Self-tapping screws for fastening to concrete or brick walls without dowels (dowels), screwed into a hole, 15 mm deep than the length of the self-tapping screw, 6 mm in diameter | 7,5 | 70; 90; 110: 130; 150; 180; 200 | |
A separate line worth noting is the self-tapping screw - a confirmat, specially created for the manufacture of furniture from wood and chipboard. The confirmat type self-tapping screw, with a clean surface and a large area of the lateral surface of the thread, allows you to obtain a high-strength and precise connection of elements. The most popular confirmat size is 7×50. Before screwing the confirmat, a hole with a diameter of 4.5 or 7 mm is required, respectively. The confirmation head is made for a hex key.
To hide the head of a tightened self-tapping screw, Confirmat produces decorative plastic buttons - plugs of any color. The plug with its protrusion is tightly inserted into the hexagonal hole of the confirmation head and disguises it to match the color of the furniture.
It should also be noted that there are self-tapping screws for concrete, which are screwed without a dowel directly into the drilled hole. When screwing into porous material and with cavities, drilling holes with a hammer drill is not allowed. To make it easier to screw, a little bit of any machine oil should be injected into the hole before screwing. Used for permanent fastening. I don’t use them because they are difficult to tighten and even more difficult to unscrew.
There are also self-tapping screws that have a herringbone thread profile. They are driven into the hole at the same time as the dowel with a hammer and are also intended for fastening “forever”. Their use is justified, for example, when attaching a baguette for a suspended ceiling or when installing plastic window frames. Their advantage is the speed of installation.
General screwing technology
Using an awl, you should make a small indentation in the place reserved for the self-tapping screw. Next, put the mount “in position”. Then, with careful and confident movements, you should turn the part until it becomes well deepened and secured inside the material. Afterwards it will be possible to increase the force, and closer to the end of the process the speed should be reduced again so that the screw is not damaged.
How to properly screw self-tapping screws into various materials
This is very useful information that every master should know.
Concrete
Most men, not knowing how to screw a self-tapping screw into concrete, will spoil a sufficient number of purchased parts. In fact, everything is much simpler - you can integrate self-tapping screws into concrete using dowels - these are durable plastics. To begin with, you should make a hole in the material and install a dowel there, which will accept the product for fastening.
Please note that home craftsmen recommend lubricating the dowels with adhesive before installation, which, in their opinion, will strengthen the connection.
You should only drill holes in concrete using a hammer drill - even impact drills are not capable of withstanding, and what can we say about ordinary ones. Self-tapping screws should be used universal or those for wood.
Tiles (ceramics), brick and screed
Self-tapping screws are screwed into such environments in a similar way. The only thing is that when working with tiles, you should take a regular drill, because it can split due to the very high power of the hammer drill.
Aluminum, copper and bronze
It is worth measuring the diameter of the rod of the fastening product without taking into account the thread. This manipulation should be performed using a caliper, and then install the pointed jaws perpendicular to the fastening and clamp everything so that they completely fit into the thread groove. Next, determine the diameter. Using a drill whose diameter is 1-1.5 mm less than the obtained value, make a hole inside the material. Next, screw the self-tapping screw into the hole, and the work is ready, and the parts are needed with universal threaded screws.
Important! Before you start “making holes” in the main structure, it is worth checking the drill on a small and unnecessary piece of similar material. It is worth drilling a hole and trying to screw the product into it. The drill will be considered correctly selected if the self-tapping screw fits tightly into the hole, but does not wedge. In this case, if you cannot get through the screw, you need to work with thicker drills. Screwing the part in too easily will indicate that you should use a slightly thinner drill, as otherwise the self-tapping screw could pop out at any moment.
Hard metal
The hole should be equal to or even slightly larger than the unthreaded diameter. Self-tapping screws will not be able to cope with many hard metals, and in particular, it is unrealistic to screw such fasteners into cast iron.
Plastic
Not all plastic will be ready to accept a self-tapping screw, and therefore it is worth making sure that the material will fit exactly before starting work. The technology for screwing a self-tapping screw into plastic will be the same as for soft metal - bronze, copper and aluminum. Recommended products are those that have wood carvings.
Fibreboard, chipboard, wood
If you don’t know how to screw a self-tapping screw into a board, then believe me, there’s actually nothing simpler. The basic rule is to use only self-tapping screws for wood. For hard grades of material, thin boards, chipboard and fiberboard, you will need to pre-drill a hole for the product, because there is a risk of splitting the material with a self-tapping screw. For thick boards made of soft wood, you cannot do without such manipulation. If you are working with hard wood, choose a drill with a diameter that is equal to the diameter of the self-tapping screw rod (without threads), if in fiberboard, then the rod should be 0.1 cm smaller, and if chipboard or soft wood, then 0.2-0.3 thinner cm.
Drywall
Here you will need to mark the points with a pencil on a piece of paper. The optimal step between screws will be up to 0.7 meters, depending on the expected load on the structure. If you use a screwdriver, then you can start screwing the product at the highest possible speed. Further, when the screw goes 1/2 deep, you should understand the speed to the minimum (gradually). When screwing in with a regular screwdriver, the movements should be smooth. It is very important to tighten the screws correctly - they should ideally be 0.1 cm below the level of the cardboard, not the plaster! This will make it possible to provide the maximum possible strength for your future structure. If for some reason you cannot follow the technology and the cardboard is torn, then this place should be filled with putty, and a new part for fastening should be placed at a distance of 5 to 9 cm from it.
The type of self-tapping screw for a sheet of drywall should be selected depending on the material used when arranging the grille. For a metal frame you will need metal or universal screws, and for wood sheathing you will need wood products.
How to tighten a twisted element
The part that was unscrewed is re-screwed in the same way as it was previously. It is very important that the fastener fits into the groove that already exists at the same angle. If the product makes a new path for itself, the reliability of fastening will be significantly reduced. How to get into an existing recess? You will need to insert the part into the hole and turn it manually, without any pressure. Once everything falls into place, you will feel that the process will become much easier. You should not put pressure on a tight screw; you just need to remove it and repeat it again. A little force will be needed only at the very end of screwing.
How to tighten a long self-tapping screw
When carrying out repair work, very often you need to deal with work where you need to fix certain parts made of wood. The most common fastening method is self-tapping screws, and they do not require pre-drilling, but it is not that simple. If you use long self-tapping screws, their installation is not always as simple as it seems. Features when it comes to hard wood, for example, beech, oak or even birch.
When screwing a long self-tapping screw into wood, the head often breaks off, and the slots on a screwdriver or bit can also come off. Many will say that it would be much easier to pre-drill a hole for a screw, but this option is not always available. Often drills of the required diameter and length are not available, and this is where the tricks of craftsmen come to the rescue, helping to cope with such a scheme.
Option No. 1 - using machine oil
This method has a right to exist, but partially. The fact is that standard oil will not solve the problem, and the only thing that will help is litol or salidol, and only on condition that the mounting location is hidden. The fact is that even if the head is thoroughly wiped after screwing in, then after a while the wood around the screw inside will begin to seem to char, darken, and grease will also begin to leak out. This will cause the paint at the screw location to swell. When wallpapering, such a place may darken, and grease will seep out.
Option number 2 - soap to help
This is also a good way to help screw long screws into wood without drilling. You just need to rub the thread with soap or dip it in a thick soapy solution. After such a procedure, the self-tapping screw will fit much easier. But even here there is a problem side. Soap contains caustic (and there is a lot of it in household soap), which begins to react with alloy steel and contributes to the development of corrosion. This process is not at all fast, but after a few years the rust will begin to do its job. In any case, if you screwed the screw “dry”, then after a few years you will be able to unscrew it, but when installing with soap it will be very difficult. For this reason, you should use this method carefully, and after weighing the pros and cons.
Types and types of heads for self-tapping screws
The head is the extended part of the self-tapping screw, designed to hold fixed objects and ensure the transmission of torque from the tool to the self-tapping screw.
| Types of heads and their purpose | ||
| Appearance | Head type | Purpose |
| Secret | After installation, the head of the self-tapping screw is completely recessed into the material being fastened without a protrusion | |
| Hemispherical | Holds the object firmly thanks to the fairly wide pressing area of the head | |
| Hemispherical with press washer | With an increased area of the bearing surface of the head and a reduced height, for fastening sheet materials | |
| Reduced secret | It has a small bearing surface and a smooth transition from the head to the threaded rod; during installation it is fixed both in the material and in the element being fixed; during installation it allows applying significantly more force than with a standard countersunk head | |
| Hemispherical with a large press washer | With a very large bearing surface and a reduced head height, this type of head is designed for securing soft sheet materials | |
| Hexagon | The oldest head shape allows you to easily tighten self-tapping screws with great force using a power tool with a special hexagonal socket | |
| Funnel-shaped countersunk with a thickening along the shaft, for a 4 mm hex key | Perfectly masks the connection and allows you to close the head with a decorative plastic button | |
Self-tapping screws are designated as follows: 3×25, where 3 is the outer diameter of the thread (mm), 25 is the length of the self-tapping screw measured from the end of the head to the tip of the rod (mm).
Selecting a self-tapping screw depending on the load
Self-tapping screws have a greater safety margin for shearing and bending. The main thing is to securely fasten it to the wall. The more porous the structure of the wall material, the thicker and longer the dowel should be in order to have a larger engagement area, and accordingly the standard size of the self-tapping screw. If in doubt about the choice, it is better to choose a larger self-tapping screw for fastening.
| Table for selecting the standard size of a self-tapping screw depending on the load on one self-tapping screw of the product being fastened | ||||||
| Standard size of the self-tapping screw depending on the wall material, excluding the thickness of the product being fixed | ||||||
| Regular brick | Concrete | Tile | Porous concrete | Tree | Drywall | |
| less than 1.0 | 3×25 | 3×16 | 3×16 | 3×16 | 3×25 | 3×16 |
| up to 5.0 | 3×25 | 3×20 | 3×25 | 3×25 | 3×30 | 3×16* |
| up to 10.0 | 4×25 | 4×20 | 4×25 | 4×30 | 3×25 | 3×16* |
| up to 20.0 | 4×50 | 4×40 | 4×50 | 4×70 | 4×50 | 4×16* |
| up to 30.0 | 5×70 | 5×50 | 5×70 | 5×70 | 5×50 | 4×16* |
| up to 50.0 | 6×80 | 6×60 | 6×80 | 6×90 | 6×60 | – |
| up to 75.0 | 8×100 | 8×80 | 8×100 | 8×140 | 8×100 | – |
| up to 100.0 | 10×140 | 10×100 | 10×160 | 10×160 | 10×120 | – |
* – the self-tapping screw is screwed in after installing a special dowel for drywall.
Why and when is drilling necessary?
It would seem that without it, the self-tapping screw will fit more tightly into the chipboard, creating an optimal connection, but this apparent advantage also has a downside - internal tension in the material. This is especially true when screwing into a narrow edge part of the workpiece. It is also worth paying attention to the peculiarity of chipboard production, when a rather large and solid fraction can get in, which will certainly lead to delamination and can even damage the laminated coating. Drilling, of course, will slow down the installation process, but will undoubtedly save you from such troubles.
In the case of a facade connection, there is a high risk of damaging the coating, thereby ruining its appearance. Pre-drilling and countersinking will also come to the rescue here. Plugs, plastic or self-adhesive, matching the color will help hide the fastening site.
Attaching chipboard to the wall
Chipboard is often used to decorate the walls of a room, either in large full-height panels or partially or in the form of small decorative details. Here it is very important to consider the density of the material from which the base for installation is made. It can be wood, drywall, brick or concrete.
It’s easiest with wood; almost any self-tapping screws or screws of the required size will do, even universal ones that match your color. It is better not to use phosphated self-tapping screws, since there is a high probability of the head breaking, and subsequent careful removal of the fragments is not always possible. Correctly calculate the load on one attachment point. Sometimes using nails is enough. For example, with appropriate decorative hats or without them at all.
In the case of drywall, special dowels should be used. It’s even better if the fasteners are on a metal profile, at least most of the fastening points. A powerful magnet will help you find the profile.
When installing to a concrete or brick wall, plastic dowels are well suited. The choice on the market is very large, so it is possible to choose the best option. Please note that for porous concrete and regular concrete they will differ. There are also different models for hollow and solid bricks.
Remember that the hole drilled for the dowel must strictly correspond to the diameter of the latter, and the depth will be at least 5 mm greater. In this case, when deformed, the dowel will fill the empty space and will not stick out.
Table for selecting a self-tapping screw depending on the load on one fastening point
| Table for selecting a self-tapping screw depending on the load on one fastening point | ||||||
| Load, kg | The standard size of the dowel depending on the wall material, excluding the thickness of the product being fixed | |||||
| Regular brick | Concrete | Tile | Porous concrete | Tree | Drywall | |
| less than 1.0 | 3×25 | 3×16 | 3×16 | 3×16 | 3×25 | 3×16 |
| up to 5.0 | 3×25 | 3×20 | 3×25 | 3×25 | 3×30 | 3×16 |
| up to 10.0 | 4×25 | 4×20 | 4×25 | 4×30 | 3×25 | 3×16 |
| up to 20.0 | 4×50 | 4×40 | 4×50 | 4×70 | 4×50 | 4×16 |
| up to 30.0 | 5×70 | 5×50 | 5×70 | 5×70 | 5×50 | 4×16 |
| up to 50.0 | 6×80 | 6×60 | 6×80 | 6×90 | 6×60 | — |
| up to 75.0 | 8×100 | 8×80 | 8×100 | 8×140 | 8×100 | — |
| up to 100.0 | 10×140 | 10×100 | 10×160 | 10×160 | 8×120 | — |
You can “hide” the attachment points by using various decorative elements, such as moldings, layouts or fillets. Various options for plugs are also widely used.
ADVICE!
Unfortunately, connections in which the self-tapping screw cuts threads directly into the chipboard do not withstand frequent dismantling. Each time they become less and less reliable. First of all, this is due to the peculiarities of the chipboard structure. But during renovation or moving, such a need may arise. It is possible to repair a loose hole. Mix PVA glue with sawdust, preferably smaller ones, the kind you get when cutting wood with a hacksaw or circular saw. Carefully fill the hole with the resulting mixture. Wait a day. That's it, installation can be done.
Types and types of anchors for concrete
An anchor is a type of finished fastener for securing heavy products by wedging into the wall. Anchor translated from German means anchor. Practically, this is the same dowel and self-tapping screw, but the difference is that the dowel is made of metal, and the self-tapping screw is a bolt or stud with a metric thread that screws into a conical nut. The conical nut, entering the tubular split base of the anchor, pushes it apart, creating a greater moment of friction with the wall material. The use of anchors is only possible when fastening in very hard materials, dense brick, concrete and stone. In everyday life, such cases may arise when attaching a heavy chandelier to a concrete ceiling or when installing a suspended ceiling of a larger area. The use of an anchor is justified, for example, for fastening sports equipment in an apartment - rings, wall bars. Children's swings on anchors will also hold securely.
| Types of anchors and their purpose | ||
| Appearance of anchors | Name of anchors | Purpose of anchors |
| Anchor bolt with nut | Simultaneously performs the function of an anchor and a bolt. Indispensable if you need to fasten two parts at once, for example a corner or sheet to a concrete wall. This type of anchor is convenient for securely mounting a heavy TV on the wall | |
| The drive-in anchor is designed for fastening heavy objects on walls and ceilings made of concrete, non-hollow brick, and stone. | ||
| Allows you to attach any product to the stud of an anchor fixed in the wall with an additional nut | ||
| For hanging stationary products that need to be hung and removed periodically. For example, a chandelier or stretchers between two walls. | ||
| Used for the same cases as the anchor hook, but eliminates accidental slipping of the fixed product | ||
| For fastening hollow structures to walls | ||
| Universal for fastening wooden and metal frames, wooden boxes to concrete and brick | ||
Anchors are expensive and therefore their use is justified only if there is no alternative method of fastening. The anchor is indispensable, for example, when attaching a heavy chandelier to the ceiling. In practice, in many cases, fastening with an anchor can be replaced with fastening with plastic dowels paired with self-tapping screws, increasing their number.
